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Too late to do Sundial/eleventh hour?
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Oct 24, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the City
I will be in salt lake next weekend and would like to do the eleventh hour route up sundial. Forecast says it will be 62 in slc on the 31st. What kind of Temps and conditions should I be expecting? Am I better off waiting until next year? Thanks for your help and input guys. Michael Beasley
From Boise, ID
Joined May 26, 2015
76 points
Oct 25, 2015
60 in the valley means it will be fairly cold up on the climb. Forecast is for a chance of a couple small storms moving through earlier in the week, so there could be a light dusting of snow up on the route. The climbing might be fine, but I would expect numb fingers and toes. Someplace like Mule Hollow, Bells Canyon or Little Cottonwood south facing might be a warmer choice. Personally, I would save Eleventh Hour for next year. JimG
Joined Jul 14, 2007
20 points
Oct 25, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Castleton Tower
Friday night is a low of 26 Degrees with a high of 45 and sunny and the potential of 3-5 inches of snow on Thursday into Friday night.

Being a north facing climb at high elevation, how much do you like to suffer?
Kyler R
From SLC
Joined May 23, 2013
20 points
Oct 25, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Stuart North Ridge
It will be very cold and once it snows up there it's out of the question as a rock climb. Don't get me wrong, Sundial is fun and the setting is superb but there are numerous all-day outings in the Wasatch that are just as fun and still in season:

Anything in Bell's Canyon(all south facing)
Guert's Ridge on Mt Olympus
South Ridge of Mt Superior
(bonus for these two routes^^ for actually finishing on a summit, unlike Sundial)
Mule Hollow Wall(morning sun)
The Thumb!!!
Kevin MP
From Redmond, OR
Joined Nov 9, 2013
223 points
Oct 25, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the City
Alrighty then. I knew it was probably a no go but I had to check. Thanks for the help. Awesome vertical world I will check into all of those. Should I expect a crowd if I do pentapitch on Saturday? Michael Beasley
From Boise, ID
Joined May 26, 2015
76 points
Oct 25, 2015
Wouldn't say a crowd but you will probably run into a few folks. Check out the Industrial Wall, Japanese Terraces, Sasquatch, and Stifflers Mom in the area. NickO
From Utah
Joined Apr 11, 2011
36 points
Oct 25, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Castleton Tower
NickO wrote:
Wouldn't say a crowd but you will probably run into a few folks. Check out the Industrial Wall, Japanese Terraces, Sasquatch, and Stifflers Mom in the area.



These are all still north facing in the shade. While they are low enough to not have snow on them, I'd at a minimum have a couple hand warmers in the chalk bag.

Stick to the other mentioned, south facing sunny routes.
Kyler R
From SLC
Joined May 23, 2013
20 points
Oct 25, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the City
Penta pitch is north facing right? Michael Beasley
From Boise, ID
Joined May 26, 2015
76 points
Oct 25, 2015
Correct. I was just giving you other ideas around Pentapitch which is north facing. The other side of the canyon will probably be more enjoyable. NickO
From Utah
Joined Apr 11, 2011
36 points
Oct 26, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the City
Since you guys are being so helpful and recommendations on south facing crags in LCC. Have decided to just spend my time cragging and leave the more alpine like climbs for early summer. Would really like some south facing crags with multipitch and single pitch routes 10<. Feel free to let me know about south facing routes in AF too, gonna climb there on sunday. thanks for the beta! Michael Beasley
From Boise, ID
Joined May 26, 2015
76 points
Oct 26, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the City
O one last thing. Guidebook. Which one should I get? Michael Beasley
From Boise, ID
Joined May 26, 2015
76 points
Administrator
Oct 26, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Gram
Downloading the moutainproject app is the best guidebook to the Wasatch right now. The Ruckman Wasatch guide is great but pretty outdated at this point.

Anything on the north side of LCC will work well for you - the Thumb, Gate Buttress, Crescent Crack Buttress, etc.
Andrew Gram
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jan 1, 2001
3,828 points
Oct 26, 2015
download the MP LCC section and head to the Gate Buttress - it will not disappoint.

FYI - we did the 11th Hour a few years back in Oct - it was close to 80 that day in the valley. We still froze!
BackAtItAgain
Joined Dec 8, 2011
30 points
Oct 26, 2015
others have mentioned gate buttress and crescent crack buttress. i'd add green adjective gully. same area, more or less

routes: Gordon's, Green Adjective, Crescent Crack to the Coffin, Satan's Corner, etc.

If you've never climbed LCC before, you might consider warming up on Beckey's Wall or Perhaps or Bushwack Crack.
ton
From Salt Lake City
Joined Aug 1, 2014
0 points
Oct 26, 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: Loving the City
You guys freaking rock. See what I did there haha. Michael Beasley
From Boise, ID
Joined May 26, 2015
76 points


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