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Abominable Snowman
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Too Easy for Hard Men 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Engle, Vern Phiney 1985 Ground Up
Page Views: 528
Submitted By: Justin Compton on Oct 5, 2013

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Repelling down two easy for hard men

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Description 

Climb up the middle of the NW face - This route was originally started by Mark Jacobs who gave up after several bolts declaring that it was too easy -- hence the name.

Location 

North West Face of the the Abominable Snowman

Protection 

9 bolts


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Rock Climbing Photo: Tracie starting up the route...
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By Mike Engle
Administrator
From: Pocatello, Idaho
Oct 8, 2013

Having just repeated the route this September for the first time since I put up the FA in the 80's, I have to make a couple comments.

Mark Jacobs did indeed not want to finish the route but what happened is a very large crystal broke that he was standing on to drill the second bolt. He either hit the ground or came very close to the ground. Mark complained the route was a grungy and loose and didn't want to finish it.

I went up and finished the second bolt and the rest of the route. The route was done Needles style from stances and those were some of the hardest bolts I have ever drilled from natural stances, especially the 3rd bolt.

Mark was climbing much better than me and thus the tongue in cheek name.

In Sept, I did find the bottom 1/3 of the route a little "grungy and loose" but improved as I got higher up. I also found the route harder than every 5.10a at City of Rocks and Castle Rocks which is where I climb most of the time these days (though it's possible I was just not used to crystal pinching anymore ;-) ).

Cheers,
Mike Engle
By Justin Compton
From: Lafayette, CO
Oct 10, 2013

Mike, It was nice meeting you there that day and I agree that this climb felt way harder than 5.9!
By Jimmy D
From: Rapid City
Aug 5, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

If this is a 5.9 then Baba Cool is 5.8 ;) Sustained and technical, hats off to the FA team.

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