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Too Cool For School S 

Too Cool For School 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: James Garrett and Tim Toula, 11 November 2008
Season: East facing
Page Views: 389
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Nov 10, 2015

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At the top of Pitch 4.

Description 

P1 (5.7) Start in the corner near Learning To Walk and veer towards Quartermoon Tower into a short cruxy stemming section. Pull over to a two bolt anchor.

P2 (5.7) Follow bolts up and left passing several ledges. Ends at another two bolt anchor.

P3 (5.7+) Climb into a groove/chimney with bolts on the right face ending in some tricky face moves. Finishes at another ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P4 (5.6) Make a few face moves to end at a sloping belay spot with a two bolt anchor.

P5 (5.6) Mantle up onto the low angle terrain and finish at the top anchor.

Location 

Look for a 3rd class corner directly between Baby Buttress and Quartermoon Tower. This route starts just to the right of it. It is easy to run P1 and P2 together and P3-5 together for a two pitch ascent. Any of the anchors can be rappelled from but with a 60m rope we rapped down to the top of P4, then to the top of P2 and to the ground. The rope barely makes it onto 3rd class terrain.

Protection 

Quickdraws. Some intermediate pro is possible, but unnecessary for all but the most nervous leaders. All of the anchors are solid and easy to belay from except the top anchor. Though bolted in, it flexes noticeably when weighted. Has good cord on it as of November 2015.


Photos of Too Cool For School Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Baby Buttress on the right in the shade.
Baby Buttress on the right in the shade.

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By kalockwood
From: SLC, UT
Nov 16, 2015

Fun casual route. Climbed in 2 pitches (1&2 and 3,4, & 5). Not sure if I missed the anchors at the top of the fourth pitch or not. Ended at the tube chock belay, didn't look like there was anything higher so I figured that was the end. 2 raps from there with a 70m to the ground. 70m barely made it on both raps.