Too Cool For School
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
At the top of Pitch 4.
P1 (5.7) Start in the corner near Learning To Walk and veer towards Quartermoon Tower into a short cruxy stemming section. Pull over to a two bolt anchor.
P2 (5.7) Follow bolts up and left passing several ledges. Ends at another two bolt anchor.
P3 (5.7+) Climb into a groove/chimney with bolts on the right face ending in some tricky face moves. Finishes at another ledge with a two bolt anchor.
P4 (5.6) Make a few face moves to end at a sloping belay spot with a two bolt anchor.
P5 (5.6) Mantle up onto the low angle terrain and finish at the top anchor.
Look for a 3rd class corner directly between Baby Buttress and Quartermoon Tower. This route starts just to the right of it. It is easy to run P1 and P2 together and P3-5 together for a two pitch ascent. Any of the anchors can be rappelled from but with a 60m rope we rapped down to the top of P4, then to the top of P2 and to the ground. The rope barely makes it onto 3rd class terrain.
Quickdraws. Some intermediate pro is possible, but unnecessary for all but the most nervous leaders. All of the anchors are solid and easy to belay from except the top anchor. Though bolted in, it flexes noticeably when weighted. Has good cord on it as of November 2015.
Baby Buttress on the right in the shade.
From: SLC, UT
Nov 16, 2015
Fun casual route. Climbed in 2 pitches (1&2 and 3,4, & 5). Not sure if I missed the anchors at the top of the fourth pitch or not. Ended at the tube chock belay, didn't look like there was anything higher so I figured that was the end. 2 raps from there with a 70m to the ground. 70m barely made it on both raps.