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Unsorted Routes:

Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 215'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: All
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Brian Malone on Jun 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

On the last pitch of Tony's Nightmare, climb straight out the chimney and the corner above. (95 ft.)

Location 

Same as Tony's Nightmare

Protection 

Same as Tony's Nightmare


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By adamsc
From: Cincinnati, OH
Sep 11, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Pretty dirty up there. Coming out of the chimney to the corner is hard to protect but you can place a fairly solid DMM brass offset to protect the pull out onto the face. Either way the jug on the face is pretty big, so don't be scared away by the PG13 rating. Having been up there, going up the dirty chimney any higher than this variation would be far less enjoyable. Originally on here as a 5.7+, I think the huge jug makes it go at a definite 5.6 unless your chimney technique is a little lacking.

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