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Tons of Fun 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ben Kiessel and Ben Gardner?
Page Views: 1,598
Submitted By: Justin G on Jan 18, 2010  with updates from Dalton Johnson

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Tons of Fun with variations.

Description 

This is a fun, beginner route with a very easy (5.1) start for the first 15 feet before the actual climbing begins. The crux is about 2/3's of the way up. It is a fun warm-up climb.

Update from Dalton Johnson: there are three potential variations of this route beginning at the second mantel. I did them all on TR solo, so I do not know what the pro situation is like. No offense, but this route, with everything on, is no harder than a 5.7.

Var1: only use the fist crack, the middle crack on the right side of the dihedral, until the crack disappears. From there, move back onto the face and pull the roof moves. This variation makes the route 5.8 (potential pro: cams 1-4).

Var2: only use the face and left side arete. The arete will be overhanging and dirty for a little bit. Move to the arete once the face is a flat undercling. Move back to the face of the route for the last bolt. Then finish this route, 5.9+/10-.

Var3: only use the face and lieback within the dihedral! This make the route 5.9 and is a blast! If one could pull the face moves off only, I would like the beta. I do not think pro would change for this route.

Location 

This is about 40 feet up the river from Chucky Bill.

Protection 

It has 2 bolts and needs gear, and it has two anchors at top for toproping.


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By BGardner
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 19, 2012

Recently climbed this route for the first time since Ben and I put it up.
It is fun, but the name came from the massive amount of loose rock we had to clean off this thing to make it climbable. We spent almost an entire day on this thing and moved some of the biggest rocks I've ever trundled.
Seems like it has cleaned up pretty well, but keep an eye out. This route, like a lot at Lemon, still has some loose stuff up there.
By George Bracksieck
Jan 16, 2017

This route lies between Prow Hugger and Wildflower, to the right of a steep gully. To call this a beginner's route is ridiculous — it is a full-value 5.9, requiring jamming, liebacking, stemming, and underclinging. It is definitely fun.
By Dalton Johnson
From: My Car
Jun 29, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route is AWESOME! I ran laps on a TR solo four times because I liked it so much! If you are looking for dihedral, crack, layback, roof, face, or arete work, you can find it here. My favorite climb so far in Lemon. Still a bit dirty, especially if you use the left side arete!

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