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Tonka (the GIft) 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 8 pitches, 650', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mackay 2009
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Tom Gnyra on Jun 3, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

I hadn't gotten around to doing this route until this year, which is a real shame, as my view of tunnel mountain until this point had been that of a loose a busy place with not my favorite climbing (technical slab).

Thankfully, if that doesn't sound like your jam, then Tonka is sure to shine through as something of an interesting climb in terms of variety and fun. It hosts a bit of everything in the way of limestone: trad-y moves in a corner, easy face, hard face, easy slab, hard slab and a burly but juggy finish!

Note: every set of pitches can be combined easily with long draws and a 70m rope. This is easily a 4 pitch route.

Pitch 1, 5.9
Start by getting to a low bolt with a pretty bad tumble fall potential. easy loose climbing goes up on good holds curving through natural features.

Pitch 2, 5.10a
Go up onto a tricky face and lay back a weird corner feature on good feet. Quite short, maybe 20m. Good rock and fun moves, but not very hard.

Pitch 3, 5.10b/c
A really good pitch that has two things that are strange: first, not very difficult as it seems that the climbing is very sporty and juggy. This has said to be as high as 11a which i think is way off (no way is wicked gravity this easy!) That said, if you don't like climbing dynamically, this could easily be 10+

the second thing is the obvious manufacturing of holds. I understand that this keeps the grade quite consistent but is always not the best in my view (especially when it seems like a bit more swerving could have created a good route that wasn't just straight up). But hey, that's how it is now and I had a good time (YMMV).

Pitch 4, 5.10a
Another fun pitch, much easier than the last and maybe the second easiest of the 10s. Quite loose. one fun bit of overhang gets you over to the anchors.

Pitch 5, 5.9
Now this one was tricky. Felt almost the same grade as the last but I am willing to admit, maybe less pumpy. A big broken corner and some tricky lay backing make this really a good time, yet, unsustained as the fun is quickly over.

Pitch 6, 5.10+
I am not a slab climber. I do not climb well without something to sink a pad into. This climb really tests that and I thought this was the crux. You can easily get off route. The rock is featureless. Whoever thinks this is 10b is pretty good at slab. Traverse to the hanging belay.

Pitch 7, 5.8
It may look tricky but its mega jugs. The worst part is looking down at 200 ft of air to a ledge and then 500 ft to the dirt. But, again, very easy and juggy. Fun!

Pitch 8, 5.10b
A money pitch in it's own right. This and pitch 3 were my favorites. Basically, just grab weird blocks (solid) up to the final anchor. Weird moves reminiscent of echo canyon make for a solid end of a good climb.

To get to the anchors, follow the chert to a chain. Keep going. There is another bolted belay on a rock that can easily get you to the walk off.

Location 

Up from gooseberry, the route which always has a party on it.

Protection 

Only quickdraws! nothing else is needed, more to link pitches together (20 if you are bold, more if you aren't)


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