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Tongueless Wonder
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Skeletal Remains
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Budweisers and Bengay S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Buffalo Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Buster Douglas S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cokes and Crowbars S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crucifixion S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Custer's Last Stud S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dean's List, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ear Bone S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Like Sunday Morning S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Guilt By Association S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Liquid Sunshine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lone Johnny & His 10-Inch Neck S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Plea Bargain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Preparation H S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Presumed Innocent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Scar Face S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sewn Up S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Six Gun Sally S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soiled Dove S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Soiled Father Doves S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Son of a Thousand Fathers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Storm Trooper of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tongueless Wonder S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tubesteak Boogie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Walk in the Park S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Pete deLannoy |
| Page Views: | 895 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | R Walters on Apr 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This route goes up a crack system of sorts, using unique features the whole way. Powerful liebacks lead to pockets and then a big ledge where one can lounge. The crux is through the next couple bolts above the roof. A neat sequence of moves that are both pumpy and technical will get you through to the easier climbing at the finish. The bottom rock is a little slick, but once past the first bolt, things clean up pretty nicely.
As the guidebook states, this would be a difficult onsight. Be ready for everything..
As the guidebook states, this would be a difficult onsight. Be ready for everything..
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