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Tongue and Groove 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown.
Page Views: 362
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 5, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great pitch of low-angle face and slab climbing followed by an enjoyable and easier corner pitch. Begin dead center on the wall.

P1 (5.10c, 150'): Boulder up to the first bolt (crux - but the slab and landing are gentle if you blow it), then continue up the wall via easier but excellent climbing. Wander out left, then back right, and make sure to have a handful of small cams and wires at the ready for protecting this pitch.

P2: (5.10b, 140'): Continue up the corner above. Ignore the anchor directly overhead and instead move out right through a scrub oak and belay at a bolted anchor set up for rappel.

Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).

Protection 

A single set of cams from tiny (Purple C3 or Black Alien) to #1 Camalot. Aliens or other flexible small cams are ideal. Wires. No RP's needed. Draws. An 80m rope or two ropes.


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By Justin Streit
Apr 18, 2016

An awesome slab climb. First pitch is difficult and balancy. Second pitch isn't nearly as good, but still fun. First pitch is mostly bolted with some tiny cams and small wires to supplement. Second pitch can take a #4 cam and various cams from #1 down. Crux could be down low or right below the bulge 2/3 of the way up the first pitch. Both parts felt difficult. I agree Josh Janes that Sick for Toys is probably better slabbing, but also agree that it definitely felt harder!
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Apr 24, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great pitch, maybe the best 5.10 slabbing pitch in Red Rocks.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
May 1, 2016

Sick for Toys is probably better 5.10 slabbing... but on the other hand you could counter that Sick for Toys is actually 5.11 :)

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