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The Great Roof Area
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Diurnal pegs T 
Great Roof, The T 
Hatful of Hollow T 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Oggie Oggie T 
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Silver Sword, The T 
Spectator Slab T 
Tom's Route  T 
True Great Roof, The 
Wire Brush Special T 

Tom's Route  

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Tom Butz 1976
Page Views: 138
Submitted By: gph on Oct 19, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Tom's Route

Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>


This is a stunningly marvelous rock climb. Everything about it is perfect; the movement, the rock, the gear, variety, etc., etc. Absolute must do. History: This route was put up in 1976 by Tom Butz and the original grade was 5.1. It has been adjusted to reflect current grading practices. This is also the oldest recorded rock climb in New Brunswick.


Located about in the middle of the slab between the Great Roof and Yin/Yang corner. Look for three milk crate sized blocks stacked on top of each other. Climb up the blocks then move up to a large elephant head shaped feature. Continue up the elephant to a tree ledge. Step right then up to gain a small arete. Follow the left side of the arete until you reach a fist crack that narrows down to hands near the top of the route.


Standard rack to 3". Tree anchor.

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