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Tom's Problem 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: not Tom
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Ian McAfee on Apr 28, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Tom's Problem, Chuckie's Torture is on the left an...

Description 

This almost certainly isn't a new climb, but it took a bit of cleaning and I've never seen chalk on any of the holds nor is it in either of the guidebooks.

Grab the second set of jugs on 'Jugs' and go straight up, utilizing a high left foot, and a long lock off with a small intermediate for the left hand. Match a crimp and make another long move with the right hand to some crimps off the deck, keep it cool for the high top out as the feet are great but the hands are not so great. Other sequences are possible utilizing some worse sidepulls out right, so play around.

Can also be done from a sit, which adds a long move to the jugs but no real difficulty.

Location 

Directly to the right of Chuckie's Torture.

Protection 

Few pads and a spotter.


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By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Apr 28, 2015

I looked at this wall and wondered if something could/does go straight up to the right of Chuckie's Torture, and indeed it does. Highly doubtful this hasn't been climbed before, but it is fun and it doesn't seem like the holds have seen much if any traffic.

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