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Beginner's Blessing T,TR 
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Tom’s Dilemma T 

Tom’s Dilemma 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Tom Rhimarki, 1966-7
Page Views: 3,287
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Layback and Tom's Dilemma.


Dilemma is located in the center of the crag, about five feet right of a pronounced corner (Layback, 5.6).

Climb the crack to a point where it widens slightly about halfway up and just below a short, left-facing corner. The crux is passing this wider section and gaining the dihedral above. Look for some great holds on the face to the left. Climb the dihedral to the top and anchor using the trees.

Walk off left, and follow the gully back to the base of the wall.

This is a fun route that is more difficult than it looks.


Light rack, up to medium-sized gear.

Photos of Tom’s Dilemma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The late Tom Rhimarki in Central Gully, Huntington...
The late Tom Rhimarki in Central Gully, Huntington...

Comments on Tom’s Dilemma Add Comment
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By Pete Johnston
From: Irvine, California
Sep 6, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Very hard for 5.5, closer to 5.7 to me.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Also thought it was closer to 5.7.... The crux was wet though.
By Russ Keane
Jun 23, 2014

This really climbs like a 5.7. I can see some old school guys in the '50s calling it a 5.5... but man, forget it. And leading it? Yikes, I tried!
By Russ Keane
Aug 18, 2014


Successfully led this climb. It was nice and dry, and I was feeling more confident. I would consider it higher than 5.5. Maybe not quite a 5.7 by Crow Hill standards (easier than Post Road), so I would have to go with 5.6.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Oct 28, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Just a bit of historical info. on what the "dilemma" was.... On the FA (circa 1966-67, i.e. deep in the pre-Nut, pre-Cam era), Tom Rhimarki (spelling?) dropped his piton hammer just below the crux. He pulled through in "R/X" territory, essentially free soloing the FA.

As for the grade...5.5 is definitely "old school", from the days when Whitehorse's "brown spot and boiler plate" was rated 5.4. (AND before the bolt was placed there!) In his 1975 guide, Sam Streibert called it 5.6.

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