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Tommy's Way 

Tommy's Way 

Hueco: V5- Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Tommy?
Page Views: 1,638
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 31, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Thin adequately describes this problem. So unless you have mutant fingers, use thine feet well. Start on the rail just left of the roof on north face. Reach directly up to the thin sloping rail. Grab and use this and only this thin rail to it's terminous. Yes yes!


A pad and a spot is nice. An ankle biter lies above the first couple of moves.

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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 6, 2002

And this problem would be on what boulder?
By Jesse Ryan
Aug 7, 2002

Nice point. Meditation, north side, reach to seam up and left of the roof. Climb only on the seam to the right.
By Jesse Ryan
Aug 15, 2002

South Roof, not North. Double Doh.
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Oct 13, 2003

If I remember correctly; this is a notorious Tom Kelly sandbag. Looks V0-: probably closer to V3/4 but a great sandbag to throw a visiting friend on !! And yes, it is the crack/seam that is just above the S roof on Meditation Rock. Enjoy (your friends thrashings) !
By Tom Kelley
Jun 27, 2005

I am only partially to blame for this somewhat contrived variant. Mark Wilford came up with the idea of traversing the seam when a bunch of folks were contriving stuff on the Meditation one really hot July day. I was the only one who thought the problem was worth the effort at the time (there were a bunch of ankle-buster blocks at the base back then), and climbed it. I agree with the V3/4 assessment, especially on a cool, dry fall day with most of the blocks cleared out.
By Jesse Ryan
Jun 29, 2005

I'd have to agree with other posts that the grade is more like V4 in good cool and dry conditions. I still think this is bloody hard when it's hot (think I first sent it on a summer afternoon).
By Jordan A.
Oct 12, 2007

This is a good V4 - for an eliminate. Then again this is Rotary we're talking about here, gotta love it. Anyway, this is probably the most obvious, eliminate line on the south side combining some finger strength as well as a little technique.
By Owen Murphy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 16, 2016

Cool problem! It's ridiculous how much friction improves on this problem when the temps are 30s or below. Anybody know the name/grade of the Low Meditation Traverse that goes under the roof from right to left?
By Christian Eaton
From: Colorado
Apr 6, 2017

Confused on the intended direction. Once you're matched on the thin sloping seam, do you continue right on the thin seam for about 6 feet, or are you matched on the thin sloping seam and bust up and left to the lip? The movement to the right on the seam seems significantly more difficult than V4.... Classic Rotary sandbag?

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