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The Hank Collins Memorial Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Big Tease  S 
A Little Tease S 
Closed Project S 
Entry Fee  S 
Good Die Young, The S 
Hank Collins Memorial Route S 
Hank Spire, The S 
Hanky Panky S 
Sweet as Hank S 
Tommy TwoTone S 

Tommy TwoTone 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Hatzai
New Route: Yes
Season: Golden eagle closure Feb 17 - Aug 1
Page Views: 1,009
Submitted By: Chris Hatzai on Nov 11, 2015

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Redpoint crux

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  • 02/28/2017 to 08/31/2017: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description  

    Tommy TwoTone is the 100' alternate direct line located within A Big Tease on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall. Although sharing the first 7 bolts and last 3 bolts of A Big Tease, while climbing, this route proves to be a completely different animal all together. Not only are you tasked to climb the crux of A Big Tease, you are also required to pull a harder crux resting just below on the 3 bolt section of this route. These two sections stacked on top of one another definitely up's the ante, and the grade...

    Start out climbing A Big Tease up to perma-bolt 7. While resting at the sofa jug, look straight up and prepare for some of the hardest face climbing located on all of Hank Wall. Clip bolt 8 and set up for the crux of the route; some trickery required. Once through the lower crux, it's hard reachy 5.11 face climbing up to what is now the redpoint crux of the route. After you clear this section and clip bolt 11, climb the arete of good holds up to the ledge system above. Ride the continuing finger crack up clipping bolts 12 and 13 leading to fixed steel anchors.
    The sustained three bolt section of this route requires some classic Smith Rock finese combined with powerful lock off moves, dynamic movement and high stepping. The limited foot holds and powerful movement makes this feel somewhat like a gym climb, requiring very specific foot beta and there being virtually no ability to smear on the wall whatsoever. Using the arete holds around the corner while working through the three bolt section of this climb knocks the difficulty rating down a letter grade or two.

    The alternate line is bolted with black metolius hangers.

    9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors

    Tom Egan is the original badass who installed the anchors that are currently sitting atop this huge monolith. Put up in the early 90's, a top rope was left up for a couple of years, but no developing was done until more than twenty years later. Seeing as how he had so many different developing projects going on at that time, it's easy to understand why Tom never laid hammer to stone on this piece of rock. Tom's notable contributions to the park form a pretty long list. Liquid Jade, Blue Light Special, Child Abuse (Catalyst), a lot of the Upper Gorge, Cajun Corner, A Little Seduction, The Product. And the list goes on... Not only one of the most influential people i've met at Smith so far, he's also one of the nicest and most inspiring as well. These two routes are for you Tom!

    Location 

    Direct line starting out on A Big Tease

    Protection 

    9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors


    Photos of Tommy TwoTone Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy TwoTone
    Tommy TwoTone
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy TwoTone
    Tommy TwoTone
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy TwoTone
    Tommy TwoTone
    Rock Climbing Photo: The furthest line right, 3 bolt section with black...
    The furthest line right, 3 bolt section with black...

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