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Tommy Knocker- South Face 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 360', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C1+ [details]
FA: James Garret & Chris Donharl, January 2000
Season: Spring/ Fall
Page Views: 592
Submitted By: IanA on Apr 24, 2012

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Bill leading the bolt ladder of pitch 3.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1: 40m Begin on the towers south face. Climb up and right on loose rock, then up 5.9 left-facing corner. Continue angling right to a large ledge. Traverse right and build a belay at the base of a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 2: 25m Climb up 5.9 left-facing dihedral on excellent finger jams. Pull over short rotten section and move right and build a belay below a wide crack at the saddle between Tom-Tom and Tommy Knocker.

Pitch 3: 20m Follow 4 bolt ladder with a few placements in between to a few free moves and a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the bedding seam.

Pitch 4: 29m Walk right along bedding seam and climb first groove to a 5.10 off-width to the summit. Belay off fixed anchor.

Descent: Two double rope raps. Rappel to the top of pitch 1 then to the ground.


This route climbs the separated spire off a divided from the main Tom-Tom Tower. The route starts on the south face.


Standard desert rack, hooks, quickdraws,and rivet hangers.

Photos of Tommy Knocker- South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian on pitch 2.
Ian on pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bill on top of Tommy Knocker.
Bill on top of Tommy Knocker.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1

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By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Dec 2, 2014

A nice tower, but while this may have less choss than others out here, it was still pretty chossy! There was a lot of soft, exfoliating stone on several pitches, more so than I've encountered on my few VOG forays.

Rivet hangers aren't necessary on the bolt ladder anymore as I left one on the final bolt stud, but I would recommend a short stick clip to bypass the hook move. I blew out the rock around the lower and better looking hook slot as soon as I eased onto it. The higher slot will probably work for someone better at hooking than myself, but since this is basically a bolt ladder and a higher blown hook may spill you on the ledge, it will prove much easier and safer to skip it.

A big cam (#5 or #6 BD) could ease the mind on the final pitch, which is awkward and no give me. A big cam or two is necessary to protect the first pitch if you tackle the undercling/layback flake/corner depicted in the above photo...I didn't have one and simply wormed up the squeeze chimney immediately right of this, which wasn't hard and felt much more secure.

According to the register, we were the 6th party up this.

We added (with permission from James G.) a set of 1/2" stainless bolts to the belay ledge in the notch atop the 2nd pitch and added one 1/2" stainless bolt and chains to the 1st pitch anchor. The summit anchor was already a steel setup. You can now rap with a single 70m (60m should work but it will be close on the 1st and 3rd rappels) with no tat involved. Thanks to the ASCA for providing most of the hardware!

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