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Tombstone Terror 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Anderson, Miller, Smith, and Sumner 1976
Page Views: 7,857
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (80)
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BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for Eeyore's Enigma. Pitch ratings a...

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This is probably the best 5.10c pitch at the Leap. This route is located around the corner to the left of the start of Traveler Buttress. The climb gets its name due to the large rocks at the base that look like tombstones. The first 15ft are unprotected so don't fall.

Face climb up to the roof and work to get your first good gear in place. Follow the thin crack with jams and liebacks. The climb does not let up until handjams are reached above the small roof. Follow a widening crack to a set of anchors at 80ft. A real gem...


Gear to 3", include small cams and extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos of Tombstone Terror Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: mid crux, note the hard sport climb to the left...
mid crux, note the hard sport climb to the left...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tombstone climbs the corner system in the center o...
Tombstone climbs the corner system in the center o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last good stance before the crux...
Last good stance before the crux...

Comments on Tombstone Terror Add Comment
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By richard magill
Jun 10, 2006

Fantastic - a must do!
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Kinda scary off the ground, unprotected, sustained moves above a bad landing of tombstone shaped rocks that have probably seen their fair share of blood splatters.

Above that the gear is great, however the moves are still sustained and hard. Get ready for some exhilarating friction stems and .10+ liebacking.

A few fun and exposed moves up high and your at the anchor.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Aug 5, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Took another crack at this route on lead last weekend. I feel like I'm a pretty competent 5.10 climber at this point and this route was very challenging for me (sustained). Technically it was well within my ability, but I lost my head and my endurance just before pulling the roof at the end of the crux.

Although the gear is great for 90% of the route, the start is... really scary. Poorly/non protected 5.10 climbing with a small .5 camalot placement 7-8 feet from the ground that will do little to protect your fall once past waist level. At it's peak scariness, your feet get up to 15 ft. off the ground until you hit some good gear.

By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Anyone else think the anchors for this climb are in an awkward place?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 20, 2009

The bolted anchor that you traverse to out right is actually the Boothill anchor. The 'trad' way to do tombstone is to belay at the break, and then top out the second (and seldom done) pitch. But people use the boothill anchor for cragging convenience.
By Marty Garrison
Oct 8, 2014

In 77 I ran into a Rattlesnake back in the crack right after the crux...
By grabski
From: N California
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Single set of nuts, doubles of small pieces, a single 2" and a single 3" for the top worked fine. Triples in the ~0.5" range if you want to sew it up through the crux.

There are a couple good finger jams that give you a slight rest from pulling hard on the liebacks. I agree that the rightward traverse at the top to the Boothill anchor is a little funky -- an exposed face traverse or an awkward horizontal squeeze just when you thought the climb was over.
By JJ Foley
From: San Francisco, California
Aug 29, 2016

The name is fitting...I may have night terrors for a month after somehow managing to claw my way up this thing for an onsight.

First 15 feet are no fall and no pro.

I found the gear to be a little more tricky than imagined but it may have just been my nerves and head getting in the way.

Full on lie-backing through the crux with the occasional good finger jam to give you a false sense of security.

Props to Ben Stasiuk for pushing through "the most nerve racking belay of his life".

Have fun!
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 22, 2017

A little bit more about the gear on this climb for those wavering on it based on previous comments:

- I'm definitely not one to sandbag protection availability, so the good news here is that the start is definitely NOT strictly unprotectable. That said, it's always a good idea to be generally competent at the grade on any starts without ample pro for a good chunk of the first 10-20 feet.

- You can get in an excellent .1/.2 BD offset at about 7-8 feet off the deck.
Directly above that, you can get in a good BD .75 where the right wall of the crack extends out just far enough to support four cam lobes. This pro will definitely keep you off the deck if you blow the first few lieback moves needed to establish a left backstep on large dikes. It's pumpy to get in that first cam or two due to the lack of initial feet, but you can have your belayer power-spot you if needed.

- After the first few moves, you're then looking at one or two more unprotectable moves (~.9/.10a) to a good dike jug. These moves are definitely easier than the first few off the ground. After the jug, it's a few more .7/.8 moves until you reach the first part of the main corner crack, where you can get a solid 0/.1 BD offset. From them on, there's really good gear throughout the climb.

Great climb overall! In terms of 10c lieback cruxes, it reminds me a touch of Oz in Tuolumne, but with a much shorter crux that is steeper in spots but with solid finger locks (at least for bigger hands) for stopping to place gear. Look for stemming opportunities both left and right of the crack to ease the pump.

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