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Leaning Tower/Tombstone Wall
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Tombstone Direct 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: Remo on May 18, 2009

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Climbs up middle of face.

Description 

Start on crescent holds in the middle of face. Head up and left for a tricky finish.

Location 

Center of Tombstone wall.

Protection 

Pads


Comments on Tombstone Direct Add Comment
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By Dobbe
May 28, 2010

Has any one done this? I remember getting on it like 6 or 7 years ago with Shoe guy and him having a hard time with the top I think It might be a little harder then 5?
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 28, 2010

Yo Dobbe, in Eric's guide this was given a V5. I've done it moving more right and it felt like solid 5, but I think Eric's line goes left and I agree it seems harder.
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 25, 2010
rating: V5 6C

So I think I did this problem, but I'm not entirely convinced. I started on the crescent crimps and headed straight up for a few feet but then cut slightly right, using holds near to the right crack but never actually using the crack, and topped out between the left crack and the corner. Aside from staying between the cracks and not using the right corner, is anything off?
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 3, 2011
rating: V5 6C

To those who've climbed this and seen Ian's movie: how does this line compare to what he calls "Tombstone," giving it V2? For me I did the same start, and eliminated a couple jugs he used up high (high crack and also jug sidepull out right, if I remember). I'll have to get back on this to see if I was missing something, but those first couple of moves sure seemed a fair bit harder than V2 at the time.
By James M Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
May 9, 2016

I think this is often confused with Tombstone Classic which goes up to the good edges just left of the crack and was first climbed by Gill in the 50's or 60's.

Tombstone Direct goes up and left, avoiding the good edges to the right and the hand crack to the left. The direct is a typical DL eliminate deal, you know, do the first third of a classic, then do two contrived moves to avoid the easy part and then rejoin the classic. I think EZ did the direct first, but I'm not 100% sure - maybe somebody who was around during that era can shed some light.

I remember making good progress on it back in an afternoon around 2000 or 2001, and feeling like it was on the border of doable. So, V5 is probably about right, but I wasn't an avid boulderer then (or now) either and "V" grades weren't really 100% established at that point, so who knows.

I hope this and the addition of Tombstone Classic clears up some of the confusion.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
May 9, 2016

James, I am pretty sure the direct was done a very long time ago. We use to spend hours bouldering and swilling here doing every possible variation our twisted little minds could dream up and then some circa mid 70,s to early 80,s. This was before EZ showed up at the lake. And we were pretty sure most of our "brilliant" variations had already been done....think John Gill and a few other strong climbers who pulled down on these long before us. Thanks for posting the other tombstone stuff brings back some great memories. Peace and now puke!