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The Monument Base Area
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Abraxas T 
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Bagpiping in the Buff S 
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Tombstone Crack T 

Tombstone Crack 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Wayne Arrington and Ken Currens 1975 (FFA)
Page Views: 1,906
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Sep 8, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Near the top of 35 meters of crack climbing goodne...

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  • Description 

    35M of perfect crack climbing with a monumental position. Getting to the base of the crack is a challenge, from above or below your in for an adventure. This crack would be a classic anywhere in North America.

    After climbing Tombstone climb the choss chimney above. There is no belay anchor.

    Due to rockfall hazards, do not attempt to access this climb if anyone is climbing below you.

    Location 

    Either climb Abraxas (5.11 and 5.12 pitches on bad rock) or rap in from above. The gully between Puddy's Tower and the Monument is a decent way getting to the top (takes an hr from the parking lot). Scramble up 5th class rock by several options (good quality) to the rap anchors( 2 ropes or a 70M). The rock on the rappel is horrible. Anchors are to the rappeler's left. Rap down the crack with a 70M rope. The entire route could probably be rappelled to the ground on a 70M

    Protection 

    2 new lead bolts, multiple button heads. The crack goes from .75 to 3 Camalots range, triples in gold and red nice but not necessary. Finger sized cam is nice before the first bolt


    Photos of Tombstone Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping from the top.
    Rapping from the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: 5.6 junk top-out
    BETA PHOTO: 5.6 junk top-out
    Rock Climbing Photo: Great view from the wall
    Great view from the wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: zoomed in shot from below; steep hands for days
    zoomed in shot from below; steep hands for days
    Rock Climbing Photo: Not the most accessible, but undoubtedly one of th...
    BETA PHOTO: Not the most accessible, but undoubtedly one of th...

    Comments on Tombstone Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jplotz
    From: Wenatchee, WA
    Feb 5, 2016

    The description says do not attempt if people are climbing below you. My friend Chris and I started extra early for this reason. No one was there when we hiked by to start up the gully to the top of the monument.

    We rapelled down to the bottom of the crack, and noticed a large group of people had gathered on the bottom pitches a few hundred feet below us in the meantime. Since we bothered to get up early to climb the crack it was our opinion that it was their obligation to wait for us to finish the route before they started climbing. However they climbed anyway, and had to dodge a few rocks that had cut loose.

    So my opinion is if you start early enough and no one is climbing at the base as you walk by, then you have the right of way on tombstone crack if you approach it from above.
    By Jon Rhoderick
    Feb 5, 2016

    Great pictures Jplotz

    I agree with you: first come, first served and also that people down low need to understand the risks they are incurring climbing those routes and hopefully never have to face the consequences. As an aside, what did you guys do for an anchor after the final pitch? I didn't find much satisfactory gear but there was a giant hole big enough for me to give a very confident body belay!
    Jon
    By Jplotz
    From: Wenatchee, WA
    Feb 9, 2016

    yeah I can't remember since I didn't lead that choss pitch thank God! I don't think it was too big of an issue. He may have even tied into the rap anchor at the top.

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