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Tomato 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Evans, Matt Hale 1969
Page Views: 4,000
Submitted By: Jon St John on Nov 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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The first half of pitch 2 of Tomato, viewed from a...

Description 

This fun little route starts with a short flake/left-facing corner to a belay ledge. From the belay ledge, head up a left-facing corning through increasingly challenging moves until it merges with Gunsight to South Peak, a 5.3 ramp that heads to the summit. Gunsight to South Peak can get kind of crowded.

Location 

This route is just left of the start for the popular Green Wall. There are a number of descent options from the summit, the most popular being the traffic jam chimney (named so for a reason!).

Protection 

Bring a standard rack. You'll have to set up a gear belay at the end of the first pitch, and (if I remember right) at the top. Lots of great pro placements throughout this route.


Photos of Tomato Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Tomato
The start of Tomato
Rock Climbing Photo: We planned on Green Wall, and here I am thinking t...
We planned on Green Wall, and here I am thinking t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper half of pitch 2 of Tomato, viewed from a...
The upper half of pitch 2 of Tomato, viewed from a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon St. John climbing the second pitch of Tomato.
BETA PHOTO: Jon St. John climbing the second pitch of Tomato.

Comments on Tomato Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Mar 1, 2009

Great route. Good for a first 5.8, plenty of stances and opportunities for gear.
By K Baumgartner
Oct 10, 2013

Such a great line. P1 is pretty cruiser; lieback the flake and then belay from the left facing corner on the ledge.

P2 is fantastically exposed. The crux is definitely pumpy and doesn't have the greatest rest stances, unlike the rest of the route.

Finish up Gunsight to South Peak. Either build a belay on half way up the GSP section or go to the top and use the high test anchor on the East Face. Communication may be less than desirable if you belay from High Test.
By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I second K Baumgartner's suggestion above to build a gear anchor half way up pitch 2, just above the crux, where the route meets Gunsight to South Peak and the climbing eases off noticeably. This improves communication and allows the leader to keep an eye on the follower.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Silver Spring, MD
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very nice fun line with a cool first pitch and good 2nd pitch with gear options everywhere. Honestly though, I kept waiting for the 5.8 section. Hardest part was stepping up into Gunsight to SP and traversing down so we could get into the Gunsight. If you can handjam, you'll cruise this. And if we're saying this is 5.8, then Traffic Jam and Neck Press are as well.

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