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Rising Sun Wall
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60SecondsOverTokyo T 
Ask Mr. Science T,S,TR 
Buddha Bulge T 
Happy Ending T 
No Added Weight S,TR 
Tom Waits For No One S,TR 
Yokohama Mama T 

Tom Waits For No One 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gus Glitch and Monica Browne
Season: Summer (Evening) Winter (Morning)
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jun 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Scramble up to the little platform cliff left of Red Wall. Locate the bolt line just right of Mr. Science crack. Follow the six bolts to the bolted anchor. The crux is getting to the first bolt, otherwise bring a stick clip. The route becomes an endurance jug haul after the first bolt.

I removed the briars from the ledge at the base of this route. Get some!


Cliff left of The Arborist on Red Wall


Six bolts

Cold Shut and bolted hanger with chain anchor.

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By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
Jun 27, 2012

This is a Gus Glitch line called Tom Waits for No One. There is a variation called The Flyby, which basically clips the first bolt of Tom, stems up the dihedral then finishes left on Ask Mr. Science.
By Eduardo Ramirez
From: Columbia, SC
Jul 2, 2012

I still feel that this route is awfully close to Mr. Science especially with natural protection next to the first AND second bolt. The stuff left of this bolt line is not the line of most protection. If you look at the Kelley topo the crack above the second bolt is on Ask Mr. Science. Either way, it's a fun route but I feel it is smack dab on top of Ask Mr. Science. I plan on leading Ask Mr. Science and I'll update my opinion then. Happy Climbing!
By Wade Parker
From: Clover SC
Jan 11, 2014

Definitely right on top of Ask Mr Science. Anchors and top two bolts replaced Dec 2013. The rest will be done soon.
By Drew Hayes
From: Charlotte, NC
Jan 28, 2015

Super chossy feet but it's still a fun route when everything else on Red Wall is taken. I do remember thinking the route would take gear when climbing it, so reading these comments about Ask Mr. Science makes sense. Thanks for updating the anchors Wade, last time I was on this the anchor bolts were looking a little uninspiring.

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