Tom-Tom Tower- North Face
||Trad, 5 pitches, 365', Grade III
|Original: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a X [details]|
|FA: ||George Hurley & Bill Forest, November 1976|
|Season: ||Spring/ Fall|
|Page Views: ||419|
|Submitted By: ||IanA on Apr 23, 2012|
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Bill leading the last pitch of Tom-Tom.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Pitch 1: 75ft Climb up and right on loose and crumbling rock. Continue up to a ledge at the base of the main chimney system to a single fixed pin.
Pitch 2: 75ft Use arm bars and jams for the first bit till you can get inside the chimney. Most climbers will have a hard time fitting in the crack with gear on due to the narrowness of the chimney. Continue up the inside of the chiney to a bulge that will force you to the lip of the crack. Once over bulge place the only protection of the lead. Continue up tight chimney to easy walking section, which leads deeper into the tower. Climbe to the large chock stone and a belay platform with two fixed pins.
Pitch 3: 75ft Take the right hand crack of the belay ledge and chimney behind large blocks. The chimney narrows and becomes smooth climb up to chock stone in back of crack, which provides the only protection for the lead. Continue climbing up and outwards to a belay platform. Place a large unit at the chimney exit and traverse 25ft left on the platform to a fixed pin and stopper anchor.
Pitch 4: 125ft Climb a large chimney to a crack on the left hand wall directly below a large chock stone. Climb this crack and pull around chock stone and continue thru easy terrain to the summit terrace where you will see a large sling block.
Pitch 5: 15ft Easy climbing to summit.
Descent: Rappel the route, 1st double rope rap from large slung block on the summit to fixed pin and stopper on top of pitch 3. From here you can double rope rappel all the way to the ground but it is recommended that you stop on the top of pitch 1. (We rapped all the way to the ground and got the ropes stuck on top of pitch 1 and was forced to relead it).
The routh climbs the center of the north face via a husge chimney system.
Standard desert rack, Extra large units and big bros.
Top of Tom-Tom looking north towards Tides of Mind...
Climbing pitch 1 to retrieve a stuck rope.
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 24, 2012
-To be clear the 5th pitch is 3rd class, and not really a pitch.
-Also I might suggest stopping on top of pitch 2 instead of 1 since the pitch one anchor is a single drilled pin.
-If I climbed Tom-Tom again I would bring some bolts to upgrade the anchors.