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Into the Mystic S 
Mystical Melange S 
Tom Dennis T 

Tom Dennis 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Sean Gallup, Richard Rossiter, Gino Gornnert, 2001.
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 23, 2004

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  • Description 

    Start about 15 feet left of Into The Mystic at a hand crack in a left-facing corner. Climb the crack, and a narrower crack above, to a ledge at the base of the final slab. Continuing straight up looked unappealing. I placed marginal blue and black Aliens and looked at the lichen-covered, runout seam up the slab and opted to traverse right and finish with the last two bolts on Into The Mystic. Continue to the main ledge and belay at the 2-bolt anchor atop Into The Mystic.

    The route is 95 feet long; rappel back to the start with a 60m rope.

    This route gets a bomb rating because there just isn't enough good climbing on it. The lower crack is OK, but the upper slab doesn't look worth the trouble.

    Protection 

    Finger and hand-sized pro for the lower crack; small Aliens for the upper slab. 2-bolt anchor at the top, shared with Into The Mystic.


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