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Tom Bombadil 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Piana, 1976
Page Views: 1,031
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Mar 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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The awesome roof moves


Bartlett and Vogel have different starts for this route. I started under the overhang, placed pro high and near the right edge then turned the corner. You'd better be aggressive getting out on the face. Then move straight up. I found all this a bit hair-raising until I could set higher pro. This route is sandbagged in my opinion. I know, what's new it's JT. I'd give it 5.8+. Bartlett has it starting directly off the ground to the right of the overhang. It will go, but the leader will be quite exposed to a serious fall until pro can be placed.


standard rack

Photos of Tom Bombadil Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Tom Bombadil". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Tom Bombadil". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steppin'around.
Rock Climbing Photo: Randal out the roof traverse and on to better  thi...
Randal out the roof traverse and on to better thi...

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By tony grice
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

No R. Do it! The step around is kinda spicy.
By George Hayduke
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Wanted to do this route ever since seeing the roof, but was too intimidated by the "R" rating. Finally I sucked it and jumped on and am glad I did. Great climb! Maybe "R ", maybe not, either way a fun route and worth the time. Watch out for loose rock on the second half. Luckily I tested a suspicious knob which broke nearly hitting my belayer.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 14, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

good route, didnt notice any run-outs, but i did take a variation up at about mid-height and stepped right into a crack where i could get gear rather than do the face directly above. good fun.

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