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Lower Tokopah Dome
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Beauty and the Beast T 
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Tokopah Adventure T 
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Tokopah Adventure 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 R

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 R [details]
FA: Hans Kegler
New Route: Yes
Season: Warm out and no wet rock
Page Views: 334
Submitted By: Hans Kegler on May 6, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The beautiful front face of Tokopah Dome. One can ...

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Tokopah Adventure 

Still working on cleaning up the route Info. The first known? established route on Tokopah Dome was back in August 1992 by solo climber adventurer Hans Kegler. This is in no way a sport route more in the lines of alpine climbing. First ascent approach was straight up from the valley floor below two times so I would have long slings. This is I believe the easiest way up the face of the dome but one needs to have a cool head on for the route has a long lead out on pitch two. After drilling the step up bolt I soon realized it would be best to have long narrow slings for horns so I would drill the least amount of bolts for a route during my exploratory trip to learn more about this amazing dome of beautiful rock. To say the least I was thrilled I climbed the face of the dome with only one bolt. Easy first pitch up a blocky crack up to the first ledge. The first pitch is next to the huge steep slab wall that is on the right. Next walk across left to the end of the ledge to a high bolt. This is the Step up bolt AO do a delicate move off bolt and face climb to horns above left. The climbing crux and protecting crux is the short head wall above the step up bolt then it's easier climbing the rest of the way. Haven't been their since but if you like advisable to clip if near by the first bolt placed by the climbing party of Beauty and the Beast route. Next about a thirty five plus foot traverse left with a slug horn shortly after the short head wall then easier climbing left and up a bit then two slug horns before climbing down into the water chute. Avoid climbing to high or you will have to wander back down to sling the two horns for protection before climbing into the water chute. A steep short section of smearing 5.9 then run it all the way out to the top. Seemed like a seventy plus foot run out but mostly on progressively easier rock with good stances. Avoid the tempting just out of reach horn for protection high right on chute just before the top of pitch two. Small Cams for belay at top of pitch two and all the other belays other than the( top? don't remember). Next after the water chute pitch make your way over smearing but mostly walk to The X Crack by way of the top ledge. Climb the few horns 5.9 of the X Crack (X Crack can take cams for protection) then the head wall becomes easier with many horns just follow them up slightly to the left. Set up a belay on ever smaller horns just before the top - not for the faint of heart but not that bad, or use the ones that look larger just as the rock rounds out at the top. view photo. Maybe a party can make it all the way up further in one long rope length and find protection higher but I would not count on it. As I remember the summit is beautiful one of the best I've been on in the afternoon.


Photos of Tokopah Adventure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the first ledge from below and the spot of...
BETA PHOTO: View of the first ledge from below and the spot of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Topo
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: The spot where I toped out on Tokopah Dome. First ...
BETA PHOTO: The spot where I toped out on Tokopah Dome. First ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Spot the long dark thin line for at the top one ca...
BETA PHOTO: Spot the long dark thin line for at the top one ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: On my way up and over to The X Crack. First ascent...
BETA PHOTO: On my way up and over to The X Crack. First ascent...
Rock Climbing Photo: Horns just right of the easiest way up on the top ...
BETA PHOTO: Horns just right of the easiest way up on the top ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the big ledge The X Crack  and the top hea...
BETA PHOTO: View of the big ledge The X Crack and the top hea...
Rock Climbing Photo: The X Crack at the end of the big ledge. Climb in ...
BETA PHOTO: The X Crack at the end of the big ledge. Climb in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top section of the water chute. Near the last stee...
BETA PHOTO: Top section of the water chute. Near the last stee...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working my way over to the water chute on pitch tw...
BETA PHOTO: Working my way over to the water chute on pitch tw...
Rock Climbing Photo: Long slings draped over horns before climbing down...
BETA PHOTO: Long slings draped over horns before climbing down...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the step up bolt two horns slung with a narr...
BETA PHOTO: Above the step up bolt two horns slung with a narr...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the end of the first ledge the Step up bolt. On...
BETA PHOTO: At the end of the first ledge the Step up bolt. On...
Rock Climbing Photo: The protruding stone one climbs under and around t...
BETA PHOTO: The protruding stone one climbs under and around t...
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch to the first ledge above. First ascent...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch to the first ledge above. First ascent...

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By SirTobyThe3rd
May 12, 2017

It is awesome you added this route! We were wondering where did that bolt come from and where did the people (person!) climb. :) Beautiful dome!!!
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
May 12, 2017

Holy crap! We figured that was a bail bolt because there was nothing above it all the way to the big ledge. Bravo, and sorry that the first two pitches of Beauty and the Beast are now kind of a squeeze job. Thanks for sharing!
By Hans Kegler
From: Thousand Oaks
May 19, 2017

Thanks Sir Toby and Limpingcrab. Climbing to the end of the first Ledge the obvious easiest way up the face of dome and finding no gear was a unique feeling in knowing I was going to be the first one up. Glad I helped you guys with a step up!

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