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The Black Zawn
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Token Brits Direct T 

Token Brits Direct 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kevin McLane, Dave Lane, Bruce Kay
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: AJV on Jul 12, 2013

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Jonas crushing through the bolted crux. Awesome ho...

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Description 

This climb is unique for the area. It is steep but has excellent holds. The gear is good, but involves looking around a little more than other routes in the bluffs. The bolted crux is balancy and tricky to onsight without knowing what the holds are like above.

Location 

The left side of the Black Zawn wall. Scramble up to the steep right-facing corner.

Protection 

2 bolts at the crux, chains at the top.


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By Andrew F
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Climbed this route on 7/4/2016 - seemed surprisingly unpopular for a "Squamish Top 100". The starting scramble up the easy corner was much dirtier / more vegetated then in the picture in the book. The bolts up high were nice to have (I was happy to clip them...) but seemed unnecessary as there was good gear every 5 ft or so up there. A bolt down low would have been nice where you have to pull some 5.8/9 moves up a slick wall under the first little roof 10ft above your last piece with potential to fall on a ledge. Hard to see from below, but there is a spot for a good cam right below the roof so don't sweat it too much!

That being said, the upper 20m of climbing were great and protected well and definitely worth doing! It climbed like a sport climb (steep face) that protected with gear, 5.10d seems about right. Recommend bringing at least doubles of the smaller stuff (.2 - .75) as I think that was all I placed though there were a few larger placements around.

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