REI Community
Center Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Guns Blazing S 
Big Chief Arete S 
Bird of Prey S 
Blazing Buckets S 
Early Bird TR 
Eat the Worm S 
Flamethrower S 
Force Feed S 
Funambulist S 
Green Hornet S 
Head Rush S 
Killer Bee S 
Lost Souls S 
Mohawk S,TR 
Mud Shark S 
Peace Dance S 
Peace Pipe S 
Pow Wow S 
Raindance S,TR 
Route Stealers From Hell S 
Running Bull S 
Scalper S 
Toilet Earth S 
Too Light to Wait S 
Totally Chawsome S 
Trail of Tears S 
Travail Buttress S 
Wampum S 
War Paint S 
War Path S 
Wicked Quickie S 
Witch Doctor S 

Toilet Earth 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Hatchett and Jeff McKitterick, 1993
Page Views: 2,079
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 31, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The 3 vertical sections and first 6 bolts of toile...


This is the furthest right route on the Center Wall at Big Chief.

Use caution if you bring up Carville's book and count routes from a landmark, as a new (er) route has been put in just to the left of this route. The easiest way to indentify this 150' (use 2 ropes or find an interesting way to rappell off) route is by the initial slab leading left to a small roof over which the climb seems to dissappear from the base just behind and right of a large rock (25 feet high) that protrudes as a great sitting spot. The other way is to look for the Copper Feather, which hovers above this route.

Climb up over 3 small roofs and two slight variations. The crux heading over the first roof, which is slightly overhung is a 5.9 move.The second roof has two variations, going right which makes the route a 5.9, and going left, which makes the route a 5.9+. Climbing is runout on the top slab, but probably only 5.1. One more vertical section leads you to the top anchors, which are also the belay anchors for climbs headed up the challenging Copper Feather, and are both low end 5.12's.


10 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. This is 150' feet long, so use two ropes if you don't want to doulbe rappell using a lower bolt.

Comments on Toilet Earth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jake R.
From: Truckee, California
Jun 26, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

super fun route for sure. I think its the 8th or so bolt up but theres a hanger on that bolt you can use to rap off, for a double rappel.
By MisterCattell Cattell
From: South Lake Tahoe, Ca
May 28, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Or you can just do what any normal human should do, and bring two ropes for the rap.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About