REI Community
North Face of Pike's Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
66 Years of Fun 
Blind Assumption T 
Blind Luck T 
Center Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W)  
Left Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) 
Ole 6, The T 
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W) 
Three Dragons T 
Toga Party T 
Total Abandon T 
Y Couloir 

Toga Party 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI3-4 M5-

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b WI3-4 M5- [details]
FA: Erik Wellborn, Phil Wortmann, September 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: phil wortmann on Oct 9, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Near the top with PW.

Description 

Toga is a great intro to Pikes Peak Mixed action. During the FA, we had a great pitch of ice to start it. However, the first pitch can be mossy and chossy when iceless, but the last 3 are splitter AF.

P1 - 100 feet. This is WI3-4 or M3ish depending on conditions. Start at the base of the gully that leads to the prominent, right-facing corner system of The Ole 6. Belay at the big ledge beneath an offwidth flake.

P2 - 80 feet. Climb the offwidth flake, then bust right ten feet to a splitter up the face to a nice belay stance, 5.6. The money pitch!

P3 - 100 feet. Continue straight up through parallel pick size cracks to a ledge on a block. 5.6/m5-?? Prolly the crux.

P4 - 80 feet. Go straight up enjoyable, somewhat mossy climbing to a mossy topout. Belay straight back 20 feet at a wide corner.

Scramble up 100 feet or so, and cross right over the top of TA to get back to the car.

Location 

On the Corinthian Column, this is just right of the big roof at the top.

Protection 

Single rack, doubles #0.75-2. Some thin pins are nice.


Photos of Toga Party Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve T. coming up p1.
Steve T. coming up p1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yellow.
Yellow.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of p2.
The start of p2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up p1.
Looking up p1.
Rock Climbing Photo: EW p3.
EW p3.
Rock Climbing Photo: EW on the p2 splitter.
EW on the p2 splitter.
Rock Climbing Photo: EW on p1.
EW on p1.

Comments on Toga Party Add Comment
Show which comments
By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3 M5-

When your climbing group is on double Secret Probation and the wife wants you to work in the yard, what are ya gonna do? Toga Party!!! My favorite mixed route on the Corinthian. Mostly because it's the only one I can climb.
By LawHous
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 9, 2015

Superb route. Awesome alternative to TA or BA if dry. I found the crux to be end of p3/start of p4. It's a roof where you could go left or right . I went right. Puts you into an awkward, squeeze chimney thing. Although the splitter crack was slick in crampons and tough as well, sustained route all in all.
By erik wellborn
From: manitou springs
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3 M5-

LawHous, I think we went left at the roof. Good hooks and gear on that variation as well.
By phil wortmann
From: Colorado Springs, Co.
Oct 9, 2015

Great work, Lawrence, I'm super psyched to see someone else get up there. You'll love the Ol' 6 and Blind Luck too.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About