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Toe The Line 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P1: Ron Olsen, Mike Amato, and Bruno Haché, 5/6/07. P2: Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 5/13/07
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 4,995
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 6, 2007

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Bob cruising up Toe the Line.

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  • Description 

    Toe The Line climbs the striking east arete of Tonnere Tower in two pitches. An aesthetic line, with varied moves and good protection. It is comparable to Bihedral Arete in quality, but has a greater variety of moves.

    Follow the east face approach on the Tonnere Tower page. Traverse right on the dirt ledge until you're below the east arete. Start at a 2-bolt belay anchor on the ledge. Be careful; this ledge is exposed.

    P1: Climb a short dihedral right of a gully to the first bolt, and continue up to the arete. At the second bolt, step left, up, and back right (5.8); going straight up is much harder. Make a delicate step-up move (5.10b) at the third bolt. At the fifth bolt, swing onto the left side of the arete; do not go right. Clip the sixth bolt on the left side of the arete and make an airy high-step move (5.9) back onto the arete. Fun! Make some committing moves (5.9) past the 7th bolt. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor on the left edge of the arete. 5.10b, 95', 9 bolts.

    P2: Straight above the belay is the 5.11 headwall of Generous Donation; this is not the route. Instead, angle up right, past three bolts, around the right side of the headwall (5.10a). Climb a slab and make a fun hand traverse right to an exposed arete (5.8). Climb the arete and a steep headwall above (5.9). Continue more easily to the anchor. 5.10a, 85', 11 bolts.

    Descent: Rappel 85' down to the anchor atop the first pitch; angle the rappel a little to the left. From here, rappel 95' to the starting ledge.

    Alternate descent: Rappel 95' to the anchor atop the first pitch of Tag Team; this is a straighter line down from the top. Then rappel 65' to the start of Tag Team, and scramble back down to the start of Toe The Line.


    The prominent arete on the east face of Tonnere Tower. Route #1 in the ?beta photo?. Follow the Sport Land approach.


    P1: 2-bolt belay anchor at the start, then 9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
    P2: 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Toe The Line Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Evan cruising up P2 (as seen from P1 anchors).
    Evan cruising up P2 (as seen from P1 anchors).
    Rock Climbing Photo: Hudson and Chauncey on P1.
    Hudson and Chauncey on P1.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chauncey on P2. Notice the roof we passed down to ...
    Chauncey on P2. Notice the roof we passed down to ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the first pitch.
    Low on the first pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cory, toeing the line.
    Cory, toeing the line.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cory taking on the crux, as I assume it was intend...
    Cory taking on the crux, as I assume it was intend...
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the third bolt.  I think going left around the ...
    At the third bolt. I think going left around the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: "Toe The Line," P1 beta photo with bolts...
    BETA PHOTO: "Toe The Line," P1 beta photo with bolts...

    Comments on Toe The Line Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Michael Amato
    Aug 3, 2007

    It's worth noting that the original line on the first pitch stepped right at the third bolt, but that was prior to a loose block being cleaned. I revisited this route a couple of days ago and this move still goes, but more likely at hard ten or 11a. To keep the grade at 10b, swing out left to easier holds.
    By Bruce Pech
    Aug 22, 2007
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Never having climbed the route before, I *thought* the crux was a little testy for Boulder Canyon .10b. Hard .10 seems right for the step right in Ron's photo. Thanks Michael.

    The first pitch and the first 1/3 of the second pitch are really nice: devious climbing that doesn't end at the third bolt crux. 2 1/2 stars (can we give half stars?)
    By kevinnlong
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 20, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    We stitched the two pitches together to make one, long wonderful sport climb at near 60 meters. It's worth doing only if you don't mind the full weight of the rope at the top as well as have ~20 QDs in your possession.
    By Tombo
    From: Boulder
    Oct 4, 2008

    I didn't read the description very well and went right onto Tag Team after the 5th bolt on the 1st pitch so I'll have to go back and do it straight up. The crux at the third bolt can be climbed 10a by staying to the right of the bolt, or if you use the holds on the left of the arete I thought it was 5.9. Of all the pitches I've climbed on Tonnere I felt this route was truest to its original grade.
    By Dustin Scow
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 13, 2011
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    By staying on the face and clipping the third bolt and then continuing on the face to the 4th bolt, I felt that this was much harder than a 5.10b. I would rate those two bolts (from 2-3 and 3-4) as a 5.10d and the rest as around a 5.10a/b. Also, I felt that after the arete, when you throw a high right foot and step up, that this was a fairly committed move with slabby feet and not extremely positve hands. A bit of a balancing act for the whole climb.
    By D Sharp
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 30, 2012
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    As of July 2012, right before topping out at the P1 anchors, there is a smallish prominent "tooth" that would be a sweet jug right on the route, except it's loose. It holds a decent-sized boulder in place, otherwise I would've cleaned it off. Chalked it up with an X. If you pull it, it will go right at your belayer. Just be careful.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Jul 3, 2012

    Fun fun route! Use both sides of the arete as necessary; not only keeps the route at grade (although it felt way easier than .10b when I on-sighted; my friends disagree), but the airyness while switching back and forth is what makes the climb so fun! Great second pitch - I look forward to leading that next time.
    By a Ball
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2015

    Loose tooth right below p1 anchors is still there. It is pretty loose and is wedged between solid rock and a much larger also loose block. If either of these loose blocks comes free, it will probably be bad for the belayer.
    By Xan
    May 23, 2016

    Loose tooth still at the top as of 5/22/2016. Fun line, pretty scary for the grade!

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