Todoroki-no-taki Rock Climbing
Weather station 1.6 miles from here
Featured Route For Todoroki-no-taki
Nov 16, 2009
In October of 2006, I climbed here with Emmanuel Lacoste (EMAN), his wife and a few Nihonjin. As I recall, the two of them, and their son, had spent three years exposing the crag by removing heavy overgrowth. Most of the routes were new then (one went up that day) and were bolted with expansion bolts. The rock is beautiful sandstone conglomerate with amazing sloping features on several overhangs. Most routes are stiff and the only two under 5.10 are to the far right (facing the crag). There are about ten routes that are technical and fun on high friction rock. This is a nice soft vacation from the sharp coral that makes up much of the rock on the island.
That day I pulled a stone out of a 5.10a, making it a 5.10c. It was a large stone, the size of a briefcase, and shattered on the platte below. I believe that it was a rare occasion, and that most of the routes are clean and solid.