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Bataphobia S 
Cheers and Jeers  S 
Dancing With The Devil S 
Inferno S 
Old Cranks T 
Shangri-La S 
Thin Air  T 
Todd Vogel route aka "Arrow to your Heart" T 

Todd Vogel route aka "Arrow to your Heart" 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b X [details]
FA: Todd Vogel, Norman Boles
New Route: Yes
Season: All year
Page Views: 77
Submitted By: King Tut on Jun 12, 2017

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Description 

This is an old Todd Vogel route done in 79' or 80' it features hard moves to a first bolt (spinner) then 5.10 past it. the next section is X and may have tiny wires or available pin placements up to another old rusty bolt. More sustained steep slab to a fixed KB in a seam, then up and right to the anchor for Cheers and Jeers.

Quite a bold lead, bitd, I talked to Todd about it recently and it can be left to rust but others should respect the style of the FA (while it lasts) and not squeeze routes in next to it at this time.

Location 

This route starts to the left of Cheers and Jeers and to the right of Thin Air. The first bolt can be seen from the base.

Protection 

2 bolts, FP and tiny wires or pins. Don't start up this one unless you are willing to solo it.


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