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Air Corner TR 
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Arch Bitch-Up T 
Arwen T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 
Close To The Edge T,S 
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 
Good Samaritan, The T 
Handycraft TR 
Just Barely T,S 
Last Dihedral, The T 
Last Homely House T 
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Red Mushrooms T 
Sanitarium T,S,TR 
Tobin's Dihedral T 
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Tobin's Dihedral 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 380', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tobin Sorensen
Page Views: 7,367
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Eye-popping 200-foot tall dihedral.

P1 (5.10++, 160 feet): Fifty feet of endurance laybacking (with VERY slippery feet) leads to a no-hands rest out on the face. Eighty more feet of easier laybacking with excellent footholds leads to a class-4 trough. Belay thirty feet higher on a small ledge, where the class-4 section ends.

P2 (5.9, 120 feet): Continue up the dihedral to the top of the giant pillar. Runout face climbing leads up and left to a bolted belay. From here, easy fifth class leads to the top of the Dome. It is also possible to make two rappels down Between Nothingness & Eternity (two ropes required).


Right smack in the center of the Dome. Unmistakable.

Aerial view of the Dome


On the first pitch, the crack starts 6-inches wide and slowly tapers to about 3/4-inch (the first fifty feet of endurance climbing is all 4-6 inches wide). The first belay takes 0.5-1 inch.

Photos of Tobin's Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse Groves climbs through the crux of Tobin's Di...
Jesse Groves climbs through the crux of Tobin's Di...
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard Shore leading Tobin's Dihedral 5.10+
Richard Shore leading Tobin's Dihedral 5.10+
Rock Climbing Photo: Tobin's Dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Tobin's Dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying at the base of the route.
Belaying at the base of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gettin' busy
Gettin' busy
Rock Climbing Photo: Definitely use the stem rests before the crux!
BETA PHOTO: Definitely use the stem rests before the crux!

Comments on Tobin's Dihedral Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 11, 2009

About halfway through the endurance crux, it is possible to stem across the dihedral on small knobs and to achieve a much-needed rest.
By zwang
Aug 4, 2011

Offwidth technique isnt going to help on this one. Pure laybacking...On a side note, If you want to just do the first pitch it is possible to exit the dihedral near the top of the first pitch and belay from a bolted anchor. As the climb turns into the "4th class trough" step right around the corner and you will see three bolts that must be from the route just right of Tobin's dihedral. Keep in mind you will need two ropes to rap from here, but would allow you to set up a toprope on the first pitch.
By zwang
Aug 4, 2011

one more note...the crack might be a bit less than 6 inches at the start because a new #6 Camelot did not fit and was not used. For the wide section I used 3 #5 C4's, 2 #4 c4's and felt very good about the pro. Especially the #5 that caught my fall :)
By slim
Aug 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

i actually found using OW technique instead of laybacking the start made it quite a bit easier. left side in, good heel/toe, then flip around when it starts necking down. actually did very little laybacking on this one.
By busik
Sep 2, 2013

Few left side in chicken wings and knee jams, hand-stacks and heel-toe all the way until it becomes hand-size with one #4, two #3 and some smaller stuff. Was moving number 4 above me in OW and hanging probably a dozen times. Felt hard, especially overhanging section in the middle.

1 #5 (not really necessary, only for first 3 meters), few #4 and one or two #3 should be enough to safely protect wide part.
By King Tut
From: Citrus Heights
Nov 22, 2016

Done free solo on the FA by Tobin Sorenson (RIP) is the story I heard. Done long before cams, boys. FA 1976/77.
By Evan Urton
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 5, 2017
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

You can stem virtually the entire pitch, minus a body length or so in the middle and maybe the hands up high. Seems this one goes every which way.

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