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Tobacco Road 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Kees, Kudo, and Trommer, 1981
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 1, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Tobacco Road follows the crack in the center of th...


This is fun route located just to the left of Orange Peel about 400 feet up the canyon on the left. For some reason, I thought I was on Orange Peel at the time, and it sure felt easy for 5.10.

Follow a left-leaning crack with good face/crack moves to a crux bulge. Clip a piton and back it up with a small RP, since you last gear is way below you. The route finishes with a runout headwall with good holds but poor gear. You can fish in a #0.3 Camalot, but I did not see any other gear. Without this piece and considering the rusting piton below you, the route may be "VS".

Rap or lower from the 2 bolt anchor.


1 set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of nuts including RPs, and maybe an extra #0.3 Camalot.

Photos of Tobacco Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Right before the crux....
Right before the crux....

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By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Jun 6, 2010

This route may deserve a PG-13 but doesn't seem dangerous enough for an R rating.

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