Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis) Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Toats Coulee Middle Fork - South and SW faces
TOATS COULEE MIDDLE FORK CRAG is a high (5250' elevation), remote and small area located at the SE edge of the Pasayten Wilderness along the Long Swamp Road (a one hour drive from Tonasket - 36 miles west of Tonasket and about 18 miles west of Loomis). The 150' tall granite cliff is on the right hand side just before where the road crosses the Middle Fork of Toats Coulee Creek. There is a lovely camp ground along the creek and fine views of Windy Peak to the north.
There are two possible approaches;
1) Park just before the creek (turn out on the left across from the curve ahead sign) and hike due north up the trail-less slope, short and steep, for about 10 minutes to the base of the SW facing cliff. The approach is through a lodge pole and aspen forest past the huge boulder to an open upper grassy slope. Veer left when you come to the open grassy band to reach the base of the South Face.
2) Park along the creek at the campground and hike east up the steep boulder and tree covered slope to the base of the SW face.
The top can be reached easily from either end. The rock is fine quality granite, and the climbing ranges from the easier broken ledges on the right end of the South face, to the steep and blank SW face. Be aware when lowering, as many of the routes are long and/or dont start at the base. This is also a relatively new and minimally used area and so be prepared for some dirt and/or loose rock on the routes - helmets are recommended
There are also a couple of abandoned/aborted projects on the SW Face between Zen Caterpillar and Peakin' At Windy - with a bolt or two going nowhere, and ring anchors at the top.
- Note to all climbers, although this is a remote feeling crag it is also easily accessible to a wide range of other users (such as campers, hikers and hunters), so please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please respect local etiquette, avoid bolting when gear would do, make any permanent anchors (bolts or top anchors) camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible and don't mix your metals. Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.
- Note - a key to route descriptions;
NAME; grade and quality (* - good, ** - very good, *** - great, **** - world class classic); (length); type of pro. used - G = natural/gear, F = fixed (b - bolt, p - piton, fn - fixed nut), M = mixed; TR = toprope, R = runout/dangerous, PG = scary/risky; Description; FA (first ascent date), GU = ground up ascent, TR = top rope ascent.
TOATS COULEE CRAG is located along the Long Swamp road/access (FS road #39) in the Northern Pasaytens, 36 miles west of Tonasket (about 18 miles west of Loomis).
Climbing Season For the Okanogan area.
Weather station 22.7 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
Featured Route For Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis)
T Time 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Washington
: Toats Coulee - Middle Fork ...
T TIME 5.9 ** 100 F (12b)This fun, consistent and interesting face climb begins left of the alcove below Hoister Cloister on the lower arete (single bolt anchor in a small alcove) about 30 up from the base of the cliff, and climbs the narrow face right of the crack to the two ring anchors just below the top. Stepping on to the face after the first bolt is tricky and the upper is sustained and not always obvious....for most of the route the climbing is on thin ledges on the face right ...[more] Browse More Classics in Washington
Windy Peak from Toats Coulee Middle Fork creekside...
Toats Coulee Middle Fork Crag from creek
BETA PHOTO: Toats Coulee SW Face topo
BETA PHOTO: Toats Coulee - South Face topo
Toats Coulee Crag from the south.
|Comments on Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis)
From: Tonasket, WA
Jun 5, 2014
6/5/14 - Discovered a smashed over bolt hanger at the top of "Chasing Rainbows" today. At first I thought it was done deliberately by hikers or hunters, then I noticed some huge rocks had been trundled from the slope above and figured it just got crushed by a boulder. The short gully above "T-Time" also had lots of rocks trundled down it and is now bare of ground cover (will take a few years for plants to return to stabilize it), and there are many smallish rocks loose at the top edge of the cliff. The routes below the gully (T-Time and A Clockwork Orange) now have a lot of run off dirt/debris on holds and in cracks. I cleaned T-Time well, but more dirt will be washing off the slope above.... Beware.