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To the Moon, Alice 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 30, 2010

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This route is one of the extensions to "Blue Moon", and departs from its anchor.

The route has some great moves and excellent rock. Unfortuantely they are both guarded by a 10' band of heinous choss that is held together by a mixture of rat feces and swallow's nest. This would merit a bomb if the upper bit weren't so much better. Still, best to avoid this until you are truly desparate for something new, and definitely do not climb it on a crowded day. It may be possible to traverse in from "Cutthroat" to avoid the choss band.

Warm up on Blue Moon's greasy slopers, then carefully move left onto the choss-coverd ledge for a brief rest. This is a good place to re-consider your route choice one last time. Once the belayer's helmet is secure, head straight up the wall to the sketchy horizontal break. Clip a dubious bolt at the lip, then mantel onto the nice flowstone panel. A few comfortized pockets lead up the multi-colored slab that slowly steepens, culminating in a pumpy crux just before reaching the finger crack on the left.


Heads straight up from the top of Blue Moon.


Bolts, helmet, 2BA above 1st & 2nd pitches. A double lower will be required to reach the ground. Tie a knot in the end of your rope.

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