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To Talca and Back 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Drover, Daniel Petty, Katie Ovrom 1/12-3/12
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Lead Pins, 4 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: cjdrover on Apr 2, 2012

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Business section of "To Talca and Back"


P1: Face climb moderate ground past two bolts and a piton to gain a ledge at the bottom of a wide, left leaning crack. Enter the crack and climb it to the top (much easier with the right beta...). Continue up a left facing corner with a finger crack that leans slightly to the right. Belay at two bolts. 25 m, 5.10b.

P2: Mantle the ledge, lean out and clip a bolt. Traverse the ledge (very exposed, but not hard), clipping a pin and another bolt. Reach high for crimps and gain the juggy rail that leads to a small roof with a splitter. Pull past the roof into a rattly-fingers crack, following it through hands and eventually fists. Traverse right at the end to the perch and two more bolts. 15 m, 5.10b/c


Directly across from "Go Big or Go Home", or 100 feet downhill from "Nescafé and Cool Whip".


Standard rack to #4. Both anchors are bolted, top anchor equipped for rappelling. About 50 meters gets you to the ground downhill from where you started.

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