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To Hell With The Scarecrows 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: G. Kirchhoff, R. Sugget - August 2012
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 8, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: To Hell With The Scarecrows


A personal favorite, this is a wild, thrilling, mixed line up an arete and steep face. Big and small edges, a thin crux, and thoughtful climbing make this a good, rewarding route. Turn around now? or say, "TO HELL WITH THE SCARECROWS!"

Follow a thin crack protected by cams. Move up and left towards holds on the arete, clip a bolt, pull the crux, and head up and right to a rest at a hairline crack and small ledge. Protect here with wired stoppers and continue up, passing one more bolt. Finish at a chain anchor.

Intimidating to look at, this is actually a great, well protected climb.


This is the second line in The Planet area, its marked buy a striking and thin, parallel crack.


Micro cams and nuts, two bolts, and a chain anchor.

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By Roy Suggett
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

VERY cruxy on EVERY move for the first 2/3rds of the route!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

Intimidating is right. Stock up on micro cams as nothing bigger than a green C3 will fit (you may be able to sneak in a red C3 in one spot). You'd better be comfortable climbing above nests of micro nuts for the upper section.
The sequence using the left blunt arete eluded me completely, I ended up on the right side of the crack milking tiny edges and eventually came back toward the bolt. Stout either way.
By Roy Suggett
Jul 26, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Did this again. Same thoughts, but would suggest bringing a wide range of small nuts of many different shapes, manufactures, and sizes. A well fit nut is hard to find, but a gift from the Ape Gods.

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