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To Bolt or Toupee 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Ward & Paul Van Betten
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,290
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on May 4, 2006

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This route is more of a mind game than others, due to the height of the first bolt. (This is also why I gave it a PG-13 rating.) Otherwise a fun route, that is long enough to serve as a warm-up for the routes on the opposing wall.


This route is the second to last route on the east (right) side of the corridor. You have to walk nearly all the way to the back of the corridor to reach the start.


7 bolts to anchors.

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By Brent Butcher
Nov 18, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Definitely a PG-13 route, the first bolt is somewhat high, I climbed slightly right of the bolt and was able to clip with a high left hand. I believe the middle of the route is a sustained .10 and the last 3 bolts are just fun :). 2 Bolts at the top for anchors. (Oct-2010)
By Grant Mercer
From: Henderson, Nevada
Oct 3, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Agreed on the PG-13, if you don't get on the ledge correctly to get the first clip you'll find yourself in a sticky situation that's not down climbable. Bring a good mental game and try not to poop your pants.

If you don't feel like finishing the line you can always mantle over the ledge and clip to the closer anchors, just as fun. 4 bolts to anchors in that case, I'd call it a 10a pg13
By doug haller
From: Boulder, Colorado
Dec 4, 2016

Walk to the back of the corridor. Locate the line of bolts that lead up to a right facing corner topped by a roof. The corner and roof are about 1.5 meters long, each. Indeed the first bolt is off the deck. I found the crux to be getting stood up to the side of the corner-roof. As with most Red Rocks routes, holds break off and they generally get harder with time. This route felt much harder than the grade. Note that a new route went in to the right of this line in November 2016.

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