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Banyan Tree Pillar
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Bombs Away T 
Cane Toad T 
Khoday Neer T 
Louvre T 
Sport Route -1  S 
To Bee or Not to Bee T 

To Bee or Not to Bee 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Season: all year
Page Views: 68
Submitted By: Lone Ranger on Mar 30, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: To bee or not to bee

Description 

Three pitch route, each about 20m long. The easiest trad route here, and an excellent starter route for someone new to the sport and limited rack. High quality climbs and superb belay stations easy to set up anchors.

P1, 5.7, 20m. Follow the easy crack without protection for about 20ft, place a pro as you reach the high point where the crack curves to the right eventually becoming almost horizontal, place one more cam and proceed along the crack and you are standing on a table-sized ledge. This is the same belay station for P1 of Khoday Neer which comes up from about 10m to the right.

For anchor, you can place a cam or two on the horizontal crack near your right foot, and 2 cams on the crack above your left hand. We just used the left hand side crack, 2 piece anchor since the grade was pretty easy and even.

P2 continues along the rightward/upward crack from the ledge, 5.7+ pitch. The take-off is the crux; I personally felt it is much harder than 5.7. This move was not protectable.

You could instead follow the prominent crack leftward, which eventually turns right and connects with the route, at the same ledge/belay station as the one above. This pitch is harder at about 5.9+ (P2 of Khoday Neer).

P3: The "money pitch". A beautiful, exposed, delicate and fine crack that curves upwards all the way to the summit block, past the 2-bolt rap station. Some sections of the rock feel razor thin, enjoyable.

P1 and P2 don't give exposure.

Rap off 35m, either with a 70m rope or 50m doubles. The 2 bolt rappel station is common to all routes on Banyan Tree Pillar.

Location 

Climb the 5-foot high stone wall and you are there right at the start of the climb.

Protection 

When I climbed this all I had was a set of BD C4 Camalots 0.3 to 3, one extra friend about size 1, and a set of nuts. I think all we used were .5 and bigger cams and a few of the bigger nuts. A few doubles in the middle size would be helpful


Photos of To Bee or Not to Bee Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out P3/
Topping out P3/
Rock Climbing Photo: Razor crack, P3.
Razor crack, P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route (approx). Pic courtesy Samiran
BETA PHOTO: Route (approx). Pic courtesy Samiran
Rock Climbing Photo: The angle of the pic conceals the razor crack of P...
The angle of the pic conceals the razor crack of P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes
BETA PHOTO: Routes

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