I LOVE TRAD CLIMBING!!!!! Trad belays SUCK!!!! All trad climbs should have bolted belays, PERIOD!
while i think that if there is a very obvious, quickly, easily constructed gear anchor it should remain unbolted, i think that people are far too reticent to bolt an belay anchor on multipitch routes where the anchor is less than perfect
Trad is great fun and very rewarding. I love sport and I am a better sport climber because I spent the first 20 years climbing trad. Nothing will teach you how to find the best stance like trying to get gear in. I even like to take my shirt off and put a beanie on and I love that too. It is all climbing and it is all good. The more you do the more opportunities you have. Trad will open up a world of climbing you are missing.
Given passage of time since your first post, how about an update? Have you repeated the same route as your maiden voyage?
I have not had the opportunity to get back to the same route I first did, but I have had quite a bit more trad fun since my first. Having a great time learning this style of climbing, and enjoying the freedom for sure. It seems so much more natural to scope a line (even if its been climbed 100 times) and pick which way to go, instead of following the bolts. I feel pretty confident in my placements thus far but have not taken any true falls on them yet. I have tested and re-tested tons of placements and I'm getting to be more comfortable with all of my gear.
All in all, I'll be climbing traditionally for a long time, with any luck. And no - I have not had any epics yet! I dread/look forward to it.
S.Stelli From Colorado Springs, CO Joined Dec 21, 2009 181 points