To a Breathless Oblivion
||Boulder, 1 pitch, 12', Grade V
|Original: || Hueco: V3- Font: 6A PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Jordan V|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||late spring, summer|
|Page Views: ||33|
|Submitted By: ||Nicholas Tibbs on Apr 23, 2011|
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The problem starts at the bottom of the obvious crack line in the middle of the boulder. You have a far left foot with a close right foot. First move is your right hand to a little crimp followed by bumping to a pretty good right hand pinch, Adjust feet and cross left hand over your right to a good hold in the crack line. You then continue to follow the crack until you get to the arete. with your left hand on a Jug and left foot in a pretty good pocket you pull up with your left arm slapping the arete with your right hand using friction instead of an actual hold.. After this you get an obvious high right foot and carefully stand tall on that foot.. next is a left hand to a little pebble then the always appreciated Thank god top out. The crux move on this problem would be slapping your right hand around the arete and standing up on the high right foot. The fall would be scary so more pads the better and don't be a lazy spotter.
Just right/south of the gorilla boulder. the start is just at the the bottom of the obvious crack in the middle of the boulder. To get down you have to jump off the boulder onto a crash pad that you set on the ground.
Bouldering Pads two or more at least.