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TM Chimney 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
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Submitted By: William Prehm on Jun 30, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: The start of the route.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This route starts in a cave on the very left side of Fall Wall. It follows the chimney behind the Coke Bottle formation. Don't try this late in the day. Almost the entire climb is deep in the chimney/cave so it can be very dark.

P1 - Climb the water polished chimney veering right to a hand crack in the light. Move back into the chimney by under clinging a flake. Follow the chimney up past a large chocked boulder. You may want to cut back on the Big Macs before trying this climb because getting around this chocked boulder is a squeeze. Belay from on top of the chocked boulder. If your knees are raw and you have had enough you can escape by moving up/right from this belay to the rappel anchors on Fallout or...

P2 - Move out left from the belay to the right facing wall and continue the chimney until you can escape left.


Standard rack to 3". Maybe a headlamp.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 31, 2010
By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Aug 19, 2002

as the description says - start in the chimney as far left as comfortable and then move up and right toward the light, layback the flake, jam in your 4.5 Camalot and move left and up to the small chockstone stances, you see the crux squeeze above, go through it on the right using "transcendental meditation" Heel and Toe, then continue left because that is where the pro is, get yourself to the horizontal ledge that offers an exit to your right and the rappel anchor or continue up for more abuse! - the pitch I've described to the rap anchor went in one go with a 60m rope - the rap will also go with one 60m rope although you will rap off the end of your rope about two ft off the deck with rope stretch - 2 large tcu's, large hexes, small to mid tcus, hexes, and nuts should get you through....
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2003

For a full 200 ft of 5.hard squeeze, one can ride the chimney all the way to the top of the coke bottle. Lots of rope drag and a full body workout. JG
By John Keller
Sep 10, 2003

I just did this climb and had an experience I didn't think was possible... I got off route in a chimney. The description in H&T and the one given here are really good for the first pitch.HOWEVER! If you are belaying from the top of the chockstone or the ledge just above it you won't be able to see the route for the next pitch (which starts to the right but looks too narrow) and it is not to the left as suggested by the description.

The chimney goes back in to the left for another 40 feet or so and there is a right facing dihedral back there in the damp dark forboding recesses of the chimney but don't go that way. Perhaps the guide book writers didn't think anybody was foolish enough to go back there but it says go left from the belay for the second pitch and that's what I did. It was pretty fun climbing and there's a crack back there that lets light in from the front of the coke bottle over 20 feet out that created a quite impressive optical illusion. I kept moving up even though I could see that the chimney was going to pinch out and eventually it did. I had my helmet off at this point and had to carefully turn my head to the side in order to look up. Finally deciding to bail I came back down and from the belay we moved RIGHT to escape the chimney and use the anchors out on the Fall Wall. Part way out to the right I looked up and back and could see the correct route.

If you are belaying atop the chockstone or up slightly to the left, you need to move back right along the ledge towards the sun before you can see the described right facing dihedral of the second pitch above you to the left. It's obvious once you see it. The chimney is wide enough, there's chalk on it and it's full of old peton scars. Very fun and totally worth the effort. Knee pads would have been nice.

BTW: I'm claiming a first ascent/descent of the far inside of the TM chimney (2nd pitch). Not that I recommend anyone to repeat it. ;-)
By Dustin Bauer
Jun 19, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I funky climb the first half the Chimney I would concider easy except a fall before the bolt would be bad but easily very well protected. The upper half is a streous squeeze/ dihederal very weird to intoductory crack climber. All in all a fun route.
By Paul Sampson
Jul 23, 2004

This is an outstanding route with interesting and fun climbing the entire way! I highly recomend knee pads to avoid bruised knees and a 60 meter rope if you plan to rap from the bolts just to the right of the route. Even with a 60 meter rope, be very careful when rappeling from the lower bolts to the ground. You should just barely make it, but if the end of your rope has been cut, you might not. Just be aware of this and have a blast!
By Edward Corder II
Nov 26, 2004

Good idea about the knee pads, Paul. For added protection, try a soccer shin guard on the left shin. After completing this climb without them, I experienced a numb shin for weeks after.
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 25, 2006

A great chimney, and a good route to do in warmer weather. When it's hot out there, it's nice and cool in here.
By SW Marlatt
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 11, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Very fun climb! However, and perhaps its just 30+ years of caving made this pretty comfortable, but I don't remember this being anywhere near 5.8. 5.7 maybe.

(Just noticed that Kopischka's Vedauwoo guide "Crack Country Revisited," 1982, lists the TM Chimney as 5.6 - typical grade inflation.)
By Brian Story
Nov 14, 2006

This is a radically unique climb and should be on every aspiring offwidther/chimneyer's list. I also had some navigation issues, but eventually pieced the line together. For full entertainment value, I'd recommend doing this climb as one long, strenuous pitch. Rap Fall Wall noting the 2nd rap is a FULL 30m rap. Kneepads may not be a bad idea, depending on one's pain threshold.
By Mike D
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 21, 2008

Dustin! I have news for you- You climbed FALLOUT! not TM Chimney, there is no bolt on this route, but your comment are right-on regarding Fallout.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 8, 2009

Andy led in one pitch, great job, a creat canyoneering route. Awesome.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2010

Bring a headlamp.

We also checked out that deep recess at the end of P1. It dead ends, but it's pretty cool.

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