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Overhang Rock
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Tits Out For The Lads 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jimmy Surette and Greg McCausland, 1988
Page Views: 3,540
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 1, 2001

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  • Description 

    Only two bolted lines fire up the huge West face of Overhang Rock, and Tits is the the left of the two.

    From the middle of the crag, scramble up the right side of a large block to a generous belay ledge. Tits fires straight to the roof above with its anchor just over the first overlap. Brilliant yellow edges and flakes characterize this classic face climb. The climbing consists mostly of big reaches to crisp edges with a technical crux coming as you pass a small overlap. The anchors, unfortunately, were placed below the big roofs.

    We top roped the roofs in 1990, and one could certainly push this route out to 125 feet by working through the roof system to the right of the anchor. Three stars for continuity, burly moves, and great position. The rock here is largely solid, but some of the flakes are friable and must be used without pulling really hard on them.

    Protection 

    QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 27, 2003

    Actually, there are 3 climbs climbing off the ledge in the middle of the wall. This one is the far left, says Rossiter.

    Anyway, does the 12b rating include grabbing the manky rainbow-colored sling at the nigh-on-featureless section of the climb, about 2/3 of the way up? If not, any hints? The toothy crimp below the bolt (at the sling) is pretty small. Very fun, nonetheless.

    Also note: it's pretty run out but on easy terrain getting to the last bolt. Finally, getting to the first bolt isn't hard, but if you blow it, you have a decent chance of falling off the ledge, ~20+ feet or more. So, some type of gear (big cams?) or slings might give peace of mind to you and your belayer. There's large rubble/flakes at the base.

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