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This is a quality yet overlooked route on Wall Street. It throws a lot of variety at you from finger tips to wide and keeps you thinking the whole time. It is steep and fairly sustained. The first 30 feet are slightly overhanging and good rest are few. Most people only do the first pitch. If you have climbed Astro Lad, Potash Sanction and Static Cling, this is the next step.
P1. Charge off the ground into the 10 inch to 4 inch crack to a stance(photo at right). Then, climb fingers and tips, a short hand crack and into a sort of shallow chimney. Then, on up to the large ledge with anchors visible from road. Don't park your car or your dog at the base when climbing this one. Some loose rock may be encountered especially towards the top. This route would be a classic if the rock was solid the whole way. The rock is mostly solid, a bit sandy in spots and soft at the top although easier. Quite worthy regardless. One 70 meter rope to rappel or two 60's.
P2. Climb up and left on 5th class to the base of right facing corner with a beautiful thin splitter crack.
P3. Climb the beautiful thin crack (5.12 according to Bjornstad) to older looking anchors. Several tips to finger size pieces may be necessary.
Other P2. From the top of the first pitch climb slightly down and traverse right past some newer bolts and then straight up following bolts to an anchor 5.?.
Other P3. Climb the left facing corner above. 5.?
Note: I have only climbed pitch one. I provided the other pitches in hopes that someone with better beta could fill in. They look really good but hard [to me]. I hope to climb them someday. I certainly will update the description if I do.
The next route right of Static Cling (20 feet). 60 feet left of Eat the Rich.
Standard desert rack plus one or two large pieces for the start. A 5 camalot works well. Plus a few extra tips to finger size pieces including a purple C3 or black Alien.
One 70 meter rope to rappel or two 60's.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch one, two and three and other two and three.
Good hands to tight fingers. Photo by Sarah G
By Eric Leis
From: Holladay, Utah
Jun 5, 2010
Anchor webbing replaced with bright blue May 8th 2010. Still quite a bit of loose rocks up at the top of P1. Don't do if cars are under the route.
By Greg D
Sep 17, 2010
Bright Blue? Yuk!
Dec 14, 2016
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Did the first pitch today (will have to return for the second and third - it got dark) This is a super, super cool line! Sustained climbing, with everything from OW to fingers/tips, and good rests following hard sequences. I had three BD .3s and could have used five. Some .4s helped, but they just didn't seem to fit as well as .3s on this climb.