REI Community
Wall Street
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Big Corner" T 
30 Seconds Over Potash T 
A Fistful of Potash T 
Another Roadside Distraction T 
Arc Angel S 
Armageddon S 
Astro Dad T 
Astro Lad T,TR 
Baby Blue T 
Bad Moki Roof T 
Banana Peel S 
Best Route Ever T 
Beyer Offwidth T 
Big Sky Mud Flaps S 
Blowing Chunks T,S 
Bolts to Bumpy Land S 
Broken Engagements 
Brown Banana S 
Brownie T 
Campground Crack T 
Chaco-late Chunk S,TR 
Chemistry T 
ChrisCross TR 
Coup D'etat T 
Dark Horse S 
Desp-Arete S 
Diplomatic Immunity T 
Dr Strange Flake T 
Dunn Copeland T 
East Of Wrath T 
Eat the Rich T 
El Cracko Diablo T 
El Face-o Diablo S,TR 
Enigma Campground Route T 
Eyes of Falina T 
Faith Flake T 
Fernando S 
Fist Full of Potash Direct TR 
Flakes of Bongo TR 
Flakes of Wrath T,TR 
Flakes of Wrath Direct T 
Frogs of a Feather T 
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The T 
Grama and the Green Suede Shoes T 
Half Pipe T 
Hidden Message S,TR 
High Over Datura S 
Holey Moley S 
Horizontal Mambo T,S 
I Love Loosey S 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Jingus Launch T 
Jug Roof T 
Junk In The Trunk T 
Just Another Pretty Face S 
Knapping With The Alien S 
Lacto Mangulation T,TR 
Last Tango in Potash T,S 
Lip Balm Addict T,TR 
Little Tufa's T,S 
Lizard Skills S 
Lucy in the Sky with Potash T 
Man After Midnight S 
Mephistopheles  T 
Midnight Frightening T 
Mini Me T 
Mini Skirt S 
Mississippi High Step S 
Mother Trucker T 
Neopolitan S,TR 
Nervous in Suburbia S 
No Fly Zone T,S 
Pedigree Poodles T 
Pinhead T 
Points West T,S 
Potash Bong Hit T 
Potash Sanction T 
Potstash S 
Pounding the Frog S 
Practical Religion  S 
Puppy Love T,S 
Ralph the Rat S 
Rhino Might S 
Right Side In  T 
Ring Pin T 
Room With A View T 
Room With A View (free) S 
Sand and Steel T 
School Room Slabs TR 
Seam As It Ever Was T 
Seibernetics T 
Shadowfax S 
She-la the Peeler S 
Shoot Up or Shut Up T,S 
Skeletonic T,S 
Slab Route S 
Smoke Filled Rooms T 
Snakes Slab S 
Something Nasty T 
Static Cling T 
Steel Your Face S 
Stego Slab S 
Summit Chimney T 
Take A Chance On Me S 
Tap Root T 
Tastes Like Chicken S,TR 
Tempting the Guillotine T 
Tired of Talus T 
Top 40 T 
Twittin Shinkies T,S 
Two Sides of Purple, The T 
Uncertain  T 
Under the Boardwalk  S 
Unemployment Line T,S 
Unknown T 
Visible Panty Line T 
Wake of the Flood T 
Walk on the Wide Side 
Warsteiner S 
Welcome to Anexia T 
Willow Whip T 
Yogini S,TR 
Zig Zag S 

Tired of Talus 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bret Ruckman, Gary Olsen 1988. Pitch 2 & 3 Jim Beyer, Pat McInerney 1991
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 1,841
Submitted By: Greg D on Mar 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Greg D on "Tired of Talus" Wall Street. ...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a quality yet overlooked route on Wall Street. It throws a lot of variety at you from finger tips to wide and keeps you thinking the whole time. It is steep and fairly sustained. The first 30 feet are slightly overhanging and good rest are few. Most people only do the first pitch. If you have climbed Astro Lad, Potash Sanction and Static Cling, this is the next step.

    P1. Charge off the ground into the 10 inch to 4 inch crack to a stance(photo at right). Then, climb fingers and tips, a short hand crack and into a sort of shallow chimney. Then, on up to the large ledge with anchors visible from road. Don't park your car or your dog at the base when climbing this one. Some loose rock may be encountered especially towards the top. This route would be a classic if the rock was solid the whole way. The rock is mostly solid, a bit sandy in spots and soft at the top although easier. Quite worthy regardless. One 70 meter rope to rappel or two 60's.

    P2. Climb up and left on 5th class to the base of right facing corner with a beautiful thin splitter crack.

    P3. Climb the beautiful thin crack (5.12 according to Bjornstad) to older looking anchors. Several tips to finger size pieces may be necessary.

    Other P2. From the top of the first pitch climb slightly down and traverse right past some newer bolts and then straight up following bolts to an anchor 5.?.

    Other P3. Climb the left facing corner above. 5.?

    Note: I have only climbed pitch one. I provided the other pitches in hopes that someone with better beta could fill in. They look really good but hard [to me]. I hope to climb them someday. I certainly will update the description if I do.


    The next route right of Static Cling (20 feet). 60 feet left of Eat the Rich.


    Standard desert rack plus one or two large pieces for the start. A 5 camalot works well. Plus a few extra tips to finger size pieces including a purple C3 or black Alien.

    One 70 meter rope to rappel or two 60's.

    Photos of Tired of Talus Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one, two and three and other two and three.
    BETA PHOTO: Pitch one, two and three and other two and three.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Good hands to tight fingers.  Photo by Sarah G
    Good hands to tight fingers. Photo by Sarah G
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Sarah G
    Photo by Sarah G
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Sarah G
    Photo by Sarah G

    Comments on Tired of Talus Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Eric Leis
    From: Holladay, Utah
    Jun 5, 2010

    Anchor webbing replaced with bright blue May 8th 2010. Still quite a bit of loose rocks up at the top of P1. Don't do if cars are under the route.
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Sep 17, 2010

    Bright Blue? Yuk!
    By aparnas
    Dec 14, 2016
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Did the first pitch today (will have to return for the second and third - it got dark) This is a super, super cool line! Sustained climbing, with everything from OW to fingers/tips, and good rests following hard sequences. I had three BD .3s and could have used five. Some .4s helped, but they just didn't seem to fit as well as .3s on this climb.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About