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King Dome - East Face
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Arturo's Special T 
Aztec Twostep T 
Bottom of the Barrel T 
Cosmic Dance of Sheba T 
Friction Impossible T 
Key to the Kingdom T 
Magic Kingdome T 
Mission Impossible T 
Tiptoe To Topanga T 
Trashman Roof T 
Watercloset, The T 

Tiptoe To Topanga 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines & Patty Kline, March 1998, FL: unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 843
Submitted By: Steven Powers on Dec 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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This climb is in between Arturo's Special (5.8) and Mission Impossible (5.11b). It's good 'ol dome home Josh friction bumps, gets sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon, was recently bolted by unknown suspects and is a great lead.


six bolts, two bolt anchor/rap (all you need is a rack of draws)

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By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 19, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A well-protected addition to the area that features continuous climbing for most of it's length. Pro to 1" might be desired to reach the first bolt. The rock quality is on the crunchy side, but more traffic will help to clean it up. One star out of five (maybe two stars if it cleans up more).
By Murf
Oct 5, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Found myself tending to the left of the bolts on occasion. Maybe I'm not tuned up on JT friction, but I thought this was more like 10b/c (much like Chris).
By Rolf Rybak
From: BC
Dec 6, 2014

I agree 10b/c. Slopers , good footwork required. Well bolted but still feels heady due to the insecure climbing on slabby holds.
By Jim Dover
From: Idyllwild, CA
Dec 7, 2015

Led this today and have to say that it was a real attention getter. Placed a good .75 in shitty rock/crack--don't. The whole flake is so crunchy and hollow sounding--but it made me feel a little better getting to the first stance--which wasn't really that bad once committed to. Anyway, thought is was 10b/c until TR afterward--feels like 10a now. Still really fun and secure-ish feeling.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Dec 7, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

i love this climb....i am really surprised that is isn't more popular. It really is a mega-cool route. Maybe someday it will get the respect and love that is so richly deserves. (good job, Jim Dover, on the lead....)..
By Matt Carroll
Jan 4, 2017

Great Route! Well worth doing. we really enjoyed this one

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