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Tiptoe Slab 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 420'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,114
Submitted By: Guy H. on Mar 2, 2001

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Lboogy tiptoes to the top of P1.

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  • Description 

    This climb starts about 250 feet from the southernmost point of the rock, just up hill from a right facing dihedral.

    P1: ascend a wonderful, clean slab for 120 feet. At the 70 foot level there is a very old bolt, this is the only protection on this pitch until you get to the 100 foot level. Belay at the top of the right-facing dihedral on the left.

    P2: make an ascending traverse to the left until you run into a water groove. Ascend this groove, which has huge holds, and belay at a tree. There is also a very old bolt on this pitch in the water groove.

    P3: a short pitch above the tree leads to the summit. There is a tree below the notch in the summit which is used to descend with one rope.

    The exciting runout on the first pitch and the jug haul on the second make this climb a Flatiron classic.


    Light rack to 2 inches.

    Photos of Tiptoe Slab Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tip Toe.
    Tip Toe.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here is the first bolt, one of those old star ones...
    Here is the first bolt, one of those old star ones...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kira on P2.
    Kira on P2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: P1 with Deb, the Rock Nanny.
    P1 with Deb, the Rock Nanny.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kira on P1.  1st multipitch climb.  Thanks, Deb!
    Kira on P1. 1st multipitch climb. Thanks, Deb!

    Comments on Tiptoe Slab Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 14, 2015
    By Joe Keyser
    From: Scottsdale, AZ
    Aug 13, 2001

    The two bolts on this route are pretty close to being [disintegrated], or rusting out of [their] holes for that matter. But, don't let that scare you, the bomber footholds just keep on coming. Very fun climb, great views... Just like climbing the third or something, except, without five other parties joining in for the fun!
    By Mike Sofranko
    Sep 10, 2001

    The start of this route is at a good-sized tree that is at the bottom of a great looking slab with a right-facing corner on the left and a left-facing corner on the right. The first bolt was easy to find, but I never saw the second.
    By Joe Keyser
    From: Scottsdale, AZ
    Sep 10, 2001

    Mike, I almost went right past the second bolt too! It was at my waist when I found the old rusted out thing. It was exactly the same color as the rock...rust brown! Its about halfway up the second pitch...not that the bolt is any good though...:)
    By Adam Hicks`
    Dec 4, 2002

    Please don't tell me you had intentions of clipping those bolts!
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 11, 2002

    We finally found both bolts on this route this morning, after climbing it many times. Mike's comment helps to find the first bolt. The second is even harder to see, and is a few feet left of a plumb line up from the first bolt (and about 200' higher!). It does lie just right of a water groove. Both these bolts are pretty lousy and mainly useful to confirm you are on this route!
    By Warren Teissier
    Dec 11, 2002

    Just to throw in my two cents:

    What a great slab climb this is...

    If you chose not to use the bolts (probably wise), there is very little available in the way of protection. I did not see a great deal available until you reach the supposed belay areas (we soloed it so it was hard to sort out where the belays would be). The leader should regard this climb as a solo adventure for practical purposes...

    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 12, 2004

    I can't picture those bolts holding anything. This was fun - it's like a bunch of marbles cemented in place.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Nov 14, 2004

    From the picture, it appears that someone has hammered the first bolt back into its hole. I remember it sticking out about a 1/4-1/2 inch and being bent down.

    These bolts should not be replaced for historical reasons. It is not to often you find one of these little treasures on a route.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Apr 1, 2007

    Both bolts have been replaced with new, modern 1/2" Petzl Bolts. This was a pleasant surprise when I did the route today, because the bolt on pitch one is the only real protection.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Apr 2, 2007

    It's too bad these guys were replaced. They added a lot of character to the route. A big fat shiny bolt will be an eye sore.

    The first pitch has not had any reliable pro for the last decade. It was one of the few, no-pro pitches of the grade in the Flatirons.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Apr 2, 2007

    The new bolts are not "Shiny". They are painted to match the rock and are not visible from the start of the climb.
    By mt.wilson
    From: Denver
    Apr 11, 2010

    Did this climb today, great climb to bring a beginner up! Be prepared to solo the first pitch though, I completely missed the first bolt and didn't get anything in till I made an anchor. My partner pointed the bolt out on her way up, but neither of us saw the 2nd bolt.... A single set of TCUs plus a 1 & 2 Camalot and 6 trad draws is all you really need.
    By Cornelius Jefferson
    Sep 23, 2011
    rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c R

    Nice outing...simple approach and good rock/moves.

    Start is close to the northern edge where a funny looking tree is growing at the base of a clean slab splitting two opposing flakes.

    First bolt is visible from the ground more or less straight up.

    Second bolt is 60m off the deck and left of the first bolt, maybe further left than you'd think. To reach it you must leave the slab itself at a sloping ledge/dish perhaps 50m up.

    Alternatively one may climb the slab itself all the way to the summit...break right at the sloping ledge instead of heading left to the second bolt. IMO this is higher quality, maybe bumping the climb up to 3 stars. But there is no protection and nowhere to belay until the summit.

    Rappel off the tree anchor or downclimb the sketchy looking mini arch.
    By Cam Reade
    Sep 26, 2011

    Great fun for an easy family climb. This was our first family multi-pitch climb together. Me, the wife, and our two boys ages 4 and 6. If you're the leader for your group, be ready for a solo more or less. I found one of the two bolts on the route. This is the only pro besides slinging a horn or two. For gear, bring #0.75, #1, #2, #3 Camalots for the frist belay. The seconed belay there are some nice boulders to sling if you have a 20' cord. We rapped off the first tree just down and NW of the summit. I don't think this was the rap described, but it worked just fine and provided a comfortable flat area for the kids to hang while setting up the rappel. BTW, if anyone spots a black Lowe camera case, I sure would like to get it back.
    By Paul-B
    Jul 12, 2013

    Fun route, but not even close to 420 feet. I soloed and brought my wife up 2nd. I ran my whole 70m rope out for the first pitch, was about 30 feet from the summit. My guess is 250 feet.
    By oaklo
    Aug 10, 2013

    I don't know, Paul B - it seems about 420ft to me.
    By a Ball
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 12, 2014

    Fun climb. A few thoughts: The "right-facing dihedral" referenced above is more of a right-facing flake system IMO. The bolt on the first pitch is almost directly in line with what is now a dead tree at the base and was the first pro I came across. Falling in most places on the first pitch would be bad. After the first pitch, the climbing was very secure and easy.
    By Cordis
    Dec 13, 2014

    Did this as a solo outing today. My main takeaway is to stay generally in the Northern gully, which aside from a few spots was good old Flatiron slab. I got super off route and definitely made some more difficult moves than 5.2 to get back on route. I ended up re-climbing the route and did find some nice new-ish looking bolts, but they are definitely hard to find. When on route, it's a great one. The downclimb was fairly straightforward to onsight, just follow a ledge down the northern side around a mini-arch.
    By Rick Casey
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    May 14, 2015

    I climbed this route yesterday, May 13, 2015, with Aaron Nichols leading. Never found the bolts, found a flake with enough cracks for an anchor about 100' feet up towards the right side. We then discovered the rap slings were missing off the tree on the ledge that is located on south side after a short downclimb. There were new rap slings replaced there last fall, which should not have been removed. We installed a new cord and rap ring and would appreciate if this is left in place. This route is used for beginning climbers who cannot be expected to downclimb the backside descent.
    By Alex Vidal
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2015

    The rap sling has been bootied again, but the downclimb is really quite easy.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Jun 14, 2015

    If you belay at the first gear/ledge at 120 feet, you can reach the top from here with a 70. So, no more than 360 feet total....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Rap tree?
    Rap tree?

    You might not want to use this tree anymore. It's very dead and barely holding a big, loose rock.

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