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Witches' Tower
Routes Sorted
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It's My Swamp T 
Nala T 
No Direction Home S 
Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 
Pumpkin Eater 
Romancing the Stone T,S 
Scarecrow T 
Teenage Terrorists S 
Tese S 
Tipskin Jihad S 
War is Love S 
Wisk, The 
Witch Hunt 

Tipskin Jihad 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Kristin Bjornsen, Rolo Garibotti, Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer is nice
Page Views: 1,434
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jun 19, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Terrorized tips after a burn on the route.

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  • Description 

    This is the second route in from the right (so, third from the left) on the north face of Witches' Tower. It climbs directly out the wall above the Vee between the two big blocks, to join the anchors on Teenage Terrorists. Sustained and bouldery down low to mellower climbing up high.

    Location 

    This ascends the center of the north face of Witches' Tower.

    Protection 

    Five bolts -- either stick-clip, or pre-clip the first bolt on the way down from one of the other routes. (Good Beta: warm up your fingers on War is Love, the 11c/d just left, then pre-rig this one on the way down.)


    Comments on Tipskin Jihad Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mark Wiranowski
    May 30, 2012
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    The climbing through the first three bolts is very continuous and a very hard onsight. It helps to have the belayer stay close to the wall, b/c otherwise the leader swings into the rope.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Jun 8, 2014
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Kind of a lame route. Climbing straight up the bolt line is way hard. On my second attempt with weather rolling in, I eeked out right and felt kind of dirty. According to the guidebook, this is the way to go, but it would have been nice if the bolts followed the climbing better.
    By Alon Dahari
    Jun 5, 2016
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13

    Slim, we climbed it today straight through the bolt line, and it felt right at the grade and pretty fun. I wouldn't say it's a lame route, because it's dirty if you go off route.
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Jun 19, 2017
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    Straight up the bolt line is hard. Brutal fingertip abuse. Not lame. Felt stout for 12b. Harder than the 12b to the right.
    By Pinklebear
    Jun 29, 2017

    Went back and reclimbed this 9 years after the FA. You can go straight up the bolts using very thin double-gastons at probably 5.12c. Or stay slightly right of center, taking the right-gaston holds with your left hand, at around 12b. Either way the bolts are totally clippable and all options are "on." Still need to get back and remove the old spinner up high. Maybe someday....

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