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17 - This and That Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cramming T 
Said and Done T 
Scram S 
This and That T 
Tips T 
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) 
Whim T 

Tips 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c A0 [details]
FA: FA: Bachar & Kauk, '75 w/ A.0 start, FFA Jonny Woodward and Rob Ward, October 1982
Page Views: 4,373
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Robin on Tips.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Brutal face moves start past a bolt are free @ 5.12a (ha) but it is easier to use an aider to cheat to get to the crack. Really sound finger crack (albeit a little flaky circa 1994) lead up to anchors.

1980's photos of Peter Croft soloing the route float around climbing rags of the era. One of the best finger cracks in the Valley off the ground (a must do- please someone post a photo!), but lacks only a good start (being the crack does not touch down).

Location 

up a semi steep hill through trees to the base of the wall.

Protection 

bolt, small stoppers and tcu's


Photos of Tips Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The webbing ladder to avoid the super thin 5.12 st...
The webbing ladder to avoid the super thin 5.12 st...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Croft free solo  Photo taken by Greg Epperso...
Peter Croft free solo Photo taken by Greg Epperso...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lizzy on Tips. It feels much steeper than it looks...
Lizzy on Tips. It feels much steeper than it looks...

Comments on Tips Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Charlie Porter, by 1975
FFA(W/A0 start): John Bachar, Ron Kauk, 1975
FFA: Jonny Woodward, Ron Kauk, 1985
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Mar 29, 2014

Tips Thread
By melonhead
Dec 27, 2015

The Yosemite guide has always had incorrect FFA info. For the record.....
FFA. Jonny Woodward, Brian Courtney. October 1982.
The free start is a finger traverse from the right.
jw
By Jordan Cannon
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0

Classic! My new favorite finger crack in the Valley, perhaps better than Butterballs- although it's not as steep, its longer, the locks aren't as good, and it's much more sustained. Solid 11d for sure. Good footwork definitely helps. For gear, you can sew it up nicely with triples in .3 .4 and .5, and then some small x4's and c3's for the start. It took us 15 minutes to get to the base after parking at cascade falls and scampering up through the trees, but it was much easier to get back down once we found the trail. Go for it!