Tips for climbing in group of 5
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My family is coming to visit this weekend and we want to do a multi-pitch route or two. Group will be 5 total: me, wife, brother, dad, cousin. My wife and I regularly climb together, but I always lead. Rest have general climbing, top rope and following experience - but I am only leader in the group. |
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That's going to be a huge cluster. How hard are the climbs? You might get your girlfriend to lead a rope team, while you lead another. No better time to learn to lead than now. |
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1 Make sure the route has enough space for 3-4 people at the belay ledge. |
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Michael McNutt wrote:How hard are the climbs? You might get your girlfriend to lead a rope team, while you lead another. No better time to learn to lead than now.5.5 - yep, maybe. It's low angle granite, not exactly belay ledges, more of shallow spots with 2 bolts where you just stand. |
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I agree with Michael McNutt, this could very quickly turn into a massive clusterfuck. I would set up topropes, or take turns and do 3 person climbs. Even 3 person climbs could turn into a cluster pretty quickly if you're the only person that can lead. |
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Key things to watch out for, or considerations: |
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What's the route? Will it go in 3 long pitches instead of 4-5 short ones? JB |
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John Barritt wrote:What's the route? Will it go in 3 long pitches instead of 4-5 short ones? JBYes I think so! Have not climbed this specific route but been in the area. Would make for faster climbing and could take turns. Dave's Delight at Stone Depot. Guide book has others not listed on MP too. mountainproject.com/v/daves… Also some easy/fun stuff on South Side of Cedar rock. |
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With two more ropes you could get everyone up in one haul with only two at a time on the belays. This would assume everyone is competent at belaying followers. If not you would be best to do it with groups of three. JB |
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Just climb some single-pitch stuff. Easier and safer with newer climbers. |
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You said safety is your biggest goal and I would agree with that. |
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gtowey wrote:would under no circumstances have novice climbers untying from the climbing rope midway through a multi-pitch route. With only two ropes you will have to. As others have said, find some single pitch stuff instead and set up top-ropes.No one would have to untie since pitches are less than 30m each and using 70m ropes. Yea, was just trying to show them a fun time and with some cool exposure since don't get to climb together often. But guess not worth trying to force it to happen. Top rope will have to do and I/wife and one other can do some multi pitch if someone is really interested in getting high up. Can teach everyone what they need to know and make it happen on our next outing. Thanks for the input everyone. |
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Don't do it. Its really not that fun to be tied together on the side of a cliff waiting for your turn all day. Split up into two partys and get on different climbs or just go cragging. Especially do NOT try this if you have to ask how to do it. Being responsible for even one beginner climber on a multi pitch is a full time job...... |
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Not having climbed the route and just going for it doesn't seem like good planning. This type of scenario seems at best something to do on a route you know well and have climbed a ton of times. I would go climb it a couple times first. Maybe take a third also. |
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I've led climbs in big groups and this is how I do it: Leader climbs up with a tag line. Then, the leader belays everyone up at the same time and this is how: each rope has one person on the end and another tied in midway (or wherever) through a figure 8 bit on a 3' leash (overhand knot). I use an BD ATC guide and use the guide belay method and it's really easy to belay up two ropes at the same time this way. It's also a better experience for everyone to be on the ledge at the same time. Obviously simulclimbing methods apply of climbers at a good distance from eachother and rope control by unclipping from points and then reclipping yadda yadda. |
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"Guide book says you can rap the route with 1 rope, I read this as, pitch should be no longer than 30-35m." |
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Oh fun. I've led groups as large as 12 up obscure multi pitch climbs with nobody else around. About 3 ropes and 1 leader. |
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Belays on slab routes with multiple partners are likely to suck. You'll end up with everyone jammed shoulder to shoulder if they are semi hanging. |
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Eh, multi with a big group can be pretty fun. It is definitely memorable to be hanging out together way up on the wall vs just top roping. You don't necessarily need to let people talk you out of it. |
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mstolorena wrote:My family is coming to visit this weekend and we want to do a multi-pitch route or two. Group will be 5 total: me, wife, brother, dad, cousin. My wife and I regularly climb together, but I always lead. Rest have general climbing, top rope and following experience - but I am only leader in the group. I have picked an area that is remote and does not see much traffic and also has several easy fully bolted 4-5 pitch routes (read: we will not be holding anyone up). Obviously my main concern is safety and fun. Not so worried about moving quickly, they will love hanging out on the rock and enjoying the day together. We will have two 70m single ropes and will be walking off. The routes are straight up slab/friction climbing and do not meander. Guide book says you can rap the route with 1 rope, I read this as, pitch should be no longer than 30-35m. No hanging belays. Plan was to tie into middle of rope 1 w/ a bowline on a bite, lead on single strand. When at belay, bring up climber 2 & 3 on both ends of rope on standard top belay w/ atc guide. Climber 2 clean pitch (draws and maybe piece of gear). Have one of climbers carry up rope 2 from the rope mid point on haul loop. Once at belay, I presumably lead the next pitch with climber 2 belaying me while climber 3 brings up climbers 4 and 5 on top belay w/ atc guide. Repeat. Only catch I can think of is to make sure to bring enough cord for 5 separate anchors, unless can coordinate gear exchange by pitch 3. Anyone done this before or have some tips to make the day go smoother? Is this just a terribly bad idea and we should take turns and do 3 person climbs? Thanks!climbing friend, do not do it. split into the smaller group for multiple outings, and be always flex your muscles to show your considerable guns and impress anyone who would be looking on. |
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ther Only way i would survive something like that would be with a shit ton of booze and weed. And I don't drink or smoke ;) |