REI Community
The Grotto (Sundance Canyon)
Select Route:
Tipped Out 2x4s T 

Tipped Out 2x4s 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2 PG13 [details]
FA: Ryan Myers, Brian Stetson - April 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Ryan Myers on Apr 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
The battle begins.

Description 

Tipped Out 2x4s is a huge overhanging aid line that climbs out under the big roof formed in the Grotto. The route is high quality, thoughtful aid climbing mixed with some exciting free moves along the way. The rock quality varies from bulletproof sandstone to soft sandy and flakey. Loose rock was prevalent on the FA so make sure there is no one under the route. The first ascent took several days of effort spread across several months time. The route required several piton placements of varying quality, all pitons have been left in place. This line can most likely go clean with those placements but a small iron rack could be helpful on early repeats.

Location 

In the Grotto. the route ascends the big roof crack towards a final chimney feature. The start of the route is in the back of the cave feature on top of the loose talus/sand slope. Rappel into the slot Canyon to find bolted anchors for a final 180ft rappel.

Protection 

Cams: Double rack Micro to #6 (we only had one #5 and no #6 so we brought up a rack of 2x4s to place with our insufficient sized cams.)
Big Bros
Variety of Hooks
Piton rack
ALL PITONS HAVE BEEN LEFT FIXED

2x4s!!!!!

We placed one bolt and a drilled baby angle as an anchor at the end of our first day. These were the only placements of their kind on the first ascent. In retrospect, I wish we would have just left gear to bail off of and removed it later. My hope is to remove the bolt and drilled angle and clean those placements.

All other anchors were built with gear.

The route tops out at the big tree above the chimney on a really awesome ledge.

Descent: Do one short 40ft rappel off the big tree to a smaller tree below. From that tree hug the wall on your right side and do a long rappel towards and into the slot canyon. Once in the slot find the anchors for a final 180 ft rappel back into the Grotto.


Photos of Tipped Out 2x4s Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Tipped Out 2x4s
Tipped Out 2x4s
Rock Climbing Photo: Tipped Out 2x4s
Tipped Out 2x4s
Rock Climbing Photo: Tipped Out 2x4s
Tipped Out 2x4s
Rock Climbing Photo: The final chimney pitch and rappel tree.
The final chimney pitch and rappel tree.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading out on Tipped out 2x4s
Leading out on Tipped out 2x4s
Rock Climbing Photo: The starting moves.
The starting moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: My trusted belayer Brian Stetson.
My trusted belayer Brian Stetson.
Rock Climbing Photo: Happy after finishing another challenging pitch.
Happy after finishing another challenging pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The breathtaking Grotto from above on Tipped Out 2...
The breathtaking Grotto from above on Tipped Out 2...
Rock Climbing Photo: Making progress on Tipped Out
Making progress on Tipped Out

Comments on Tipped Out 2x4s Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About