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Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property)

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Gold Wall, The 
Quaking Aspen Wall 
Tioga Wall 

Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property) Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.94558, -119.22613 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,208
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Jul 9, 2007
Forecast:
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tioga cliff from the approach trail

Description 

Southeast facing wall under the HWY with very cool and hard bolted and mixed routes (take some gear for most routes). In the sun until 1:30ish. Follow the directions in the Reid/Falkenstein book...The deproach is not as bad as its written up or looks (the descent to Third Pillar is WAY worse).

Getting There 

Park at a pullout 8.2 miles up 120 from 395. Just east of the green bridge. An old info display entitled "Don't Fence Me In" confirms you're at the right spot. Hop the guard rail and descend via a steep climber's' trail. 10 minutes to the first climbable route on the first wall (the Tioga Wall), 20-25 minutes to the furthest routes/walls.

Climbing Season

For the Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga Road area.

Weather station 0.9 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',8],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property):
Warm Up   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   The Gold Wall
Makayla's Fantastic Climb   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Quaking Aspen Wall
Hummingbird   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Quaking Aspen Wall
Tastes Great   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   The Gold Wall
Hole in the Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches   The Gold Wall
Bag O' Tricks   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 90'   Tioga Wall
Stones Throw   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 90'   Tioga Wall
Just Chillin'   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Gold Wall
Silver Bullet   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   Tioga Wall
Master Cylinder   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R     Sport, 90'   Tioga Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property)

Featured Route For Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property)
Rock Climbing Photo: Varied climbing up through broken crack systems pr...

Stones Throw 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Tioga Wall
A real gem and arguably one of the best routes (and its fully trad!!) at the cliff! One of the better routes of the grade/style in the area! Way better (and more solid) than it looks. Definitely has cleaned up since the first time I was on it maybe 10 years ago!Steep blocks and 5.9 jamming gets you to a funky section with cool moves up and left (Red Alien size in the low flare -- #0 TCU or #00 TCU (better) in the middle of the 10d-ish moves). A 5.10 section with good gear links into ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Comments on Tioga Cliff Area (aka Private Property) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
From: Redlands, CA
Jul 9, 2007
Lonnie Kauk just sent his project a couple days ago. Bolted headwall left of Silver Bullet. 13c and looks RAD!. Nice send!
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Dec 2, 2009
Slightly below and looker's left of the Tioga Cliff lies the Gold Wall. Awesome, varied sport and trad climbing. Technically a part of the Tioga Cliff, but located under "Gold Wall" in the Tuolumne Meadows section of "Destinations" on this site.

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