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Tiny Town Pillar 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 32'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 22, 2008

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Patty Black enjoying the shortness of the Tiny Tow...

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

The low down 

Climb the steep, patina-laden west face of the obvious pillar south of the main rock in Tiny Town. This looks like a pillar from the west but less like a pillar from other angles.
It's a short but fun route and worth doing on your way in or out. D. Bingham gives this route three stars in his Castle Rocks book.

Where do I find this route? 

The route starts behind a tree on the west face of the pillar. The patina and horizontal cracks are obvious.

If I fall, what's there to stop me? 

A vertical crack down low followed by horizontal cracks up higher offer protection placements ranging from a .3 camalot to a #1 camalot. No anchors on top--body-anchor belay the second up from a secure stance up and over the top and walk off to the east via an easy scramble.


Photos of Tiny Town Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Tiny Town Pillar viewed from the west.
The Tiny Town Pillar viewed from the west.

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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
May 26, 2009

There are cam placements available for the belay anchor. Small to medium, rig for upwards pull. There's also a very small tree to sling as well. Simul rappel to get off, or, carefully downclimb.

Great route. A lot of bang for a little buck.
By Mike Roghaar
May 25, 2010

Spot on Brian. super fun route, well worth doing. I ended up pussin out left,easier climbing but harder to protect.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Jun 7, 2014

Heady. The largest piece was a BD #0.75 near the beginning in the vertical crack.

For the belay, go up and over, sling a patina plate and then use two blue alien sized pieces in the crack. Can't see your climber, but the corridors carry voices very easily.

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